Bench Stool: Episode 5
Posted 25 December 2013
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In this episode, Paul shows us the various methods that can be used for carving the seat. He brings in the bandsaw to show how it can be used to remove the bulk of the material, and goes on to do the whole process by hand with a gouge, a purpose made small compass plane and a curved scraper.
Great job Guys. Thanks for this one. 😉
Good episode. Thanks for the multiple methods.
Paul, that was a very interesting approach to sculpting the seat using the bandsaw. Still waiting on my gouge (backordered) so I will most likely use my bandsaw in the same manner. That bandsaw blade appeared to be about a ¼” width. Is that correct or would you recommend a wider or narrower blade? Excellent video to watch on this cold Christmas Day.
Thanks and Happy Holidays to all members out there!
Go for 3/8 to 1/2″. That gives you a little extra on the wels and still enough flex in the blade as needed.
Thanks Paul and crew, thanks for another very informative and interesting video. Can’t wait to start a couple for me.
Merry Christmas all !
Steve
What a great Christmas present! Merry Christmas Paul and crew!
Thanks for the Christmas present! Happy Holidays.
After watching this video for the second time ( Grandkids are napping ) I may start with ( 2 ) I do own a Bandsaw and #7 sweep gouge so I could do one of each. This will be great practice.
Thanks again I really am enjoying this !
Steve
first job tomorrow get the wrapping off my new gouge and get to work on a seat thanks for your efforts, you and the team have pulled out all the stops this year , i hope your sound person has recovered from that screaming bandsaw.
I have a bearing going out. I should order it shouldn’t I.
Wonderful to sit back and watch now that everyone else has hit the sack! One of the best gifts received today -Merry Christmas!!
Many thanks for my weekly ‘real woodworking’ fix. It keeps me going in the world of CNC routers and chipboard…
Thank you and merry christmas! Do you ever bore depth holes prior to carving the seat?
That’s a good question Florian. I was wondering about gauging the depth as well. I don’t think that it will be that critical, but I would like to be consistent over several stools.
It is surprising how you can train your eye to see contrast. Also remember that because f grain pattern variation, sometimes the depth can look off even though it measures perfectly. That’s because the eye is deceived. I would still trust my eye right from the get-go and train myself to work more intuitively. We live in a world of constant governance because of the computer language and life. It’s nice to enter realms of creative freedom whenever we can I think.
Thanks for the reply Paul. My gut feeling was to just do it. It is surprising how accurate the eye, and touch for that matter, can be. It is very liberating to throw off the constraints of the machined world and work in the world of the artisan.
No I don’t, although we did do this when we made the cello, to get the rough depth. But that was scary because thongs can go wrong with that. I remember one time the wood was pulled up the but because there was no way we could set a depth stop on so variable a depth. The be=it went all the way through on that occasion.
Hi Paul, can you please tell me more about the gouge, is it a #7 (straight) 35mm (or what size)? In Italy I can get Stubai tools (up to 40 mm) or a Two Cerries (but with a #7 cut not more than 20 mm, and seems to small). Thank you.
I think it is much easier to work with a wider gouge than a narrower one though of course a narrower one will work. Going too wide means more effort per cut so up to 40mm would be max for this work i think. Don’t forget it doesn’t have to be a #7 either, you could to as low as a #3. The problem though is the limited functionality in that a #3 is not much good for spoons and such. Just trying to economise a bit and make the tool work for other things when I say use a #7.
You can also use a bent gouge for this only the mallet blows will feel a little less positive.
Around 49′ 45″, Paul says, “Watch now, this is technique,” but I’m not sure what he was pointing out. Was it establishing a first pass and then broadening it with further passes? Was it popping in from the edge like you do for a housing dado and then leveling and working across? Just seeing the rhythm of work is the key thing, but I was wondering what others pulled out of that section.
Could it be the stabbing motion?
I’ll take a look and see what you are talking about here, Ed.
Best yet,I have never had the courage until today to attempt carving a chair set. Your technique and demonstration has opening a new door, and another chapter into woodworking for me.
So grateful for this opportunity to learn from the Real woodworker.
Thanks so much
Howdy,
I’ve seen a lot videos about woodworking, but Paul’s are the best. He not only depicts every detail and step, but gives the viewer the confidence to try the same techniques. I am having more fun woodworking than ever! Thanks for the terrific series.
Best,
Mike Corley
You mention leaving the gouge marks in as one option for a finish, for “character” or “authenticity” or whatever people feel it brings. Could you go a little more into what the vernacular is in this area? It seems like changing the direction of the gouging motion too much would clash, as would having the final gouge marks too unevenly spaced. What kinds of things go into making this style look just right?
Its a slewing technique where you twist the chisel into and out of the cut but still in a scalloping action. Just practice on a scrap.
Paul,
What are the 2 model numbers of the spokeshaves that you were using on this project? I am looking on Ebay and there are a number of different models available.
Thanks much for the quality of the video that’s being shot and and more importantly the content that you are providing is absolutely amazing.
I use two spokeshaves but they are both basically the #151 Stanley model. Record make them too. Old or new work fine.
I just tried my first time using the bandsaw to carve this seat… Wow, that was a total cluster… Gonna try to salvage it, but will most likely have to start over and use a gouge.
Paul- First of all, thank you for the wonderful and informative videos. Your expertise is obvious and you are human enough to even show your mistakes. These are also a lesson well taught.
You had mentioned giving use a video on how to make the compass plane. It would be very helpful if this was done so we who want to learn more on tool making and do not have the money to go out and buy the very expensive optional tools to get the result can make the tool for this and other future projects.
Thanks Paul and the group.
I was hoping that you would demonstrate the adz.
I have been looking for the video on how to make the hand plane with the curved bottom. Can some one point me to that video? I found where Paul cuts out the blanks but it stopped there. Thanks for all the great videos Paul and team!
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