Craftsman-style Lamp: Episode 3
Posted 4 June 2014
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It’s time to cut the half-housing to fit the two glazing bars together and put together the side panels. Once that is done, Paul shapes and fits the small ventilation panels which fit in the top and bottom of each side.
Tricks of the trade. It really separates you from the other on line “teachers”. Thank you very much.
Loaded with great tips! Thanks.
thanks for taking the time to show the best way so we dont have to learn from costly mistakes it really does make a difference
I’ve got my wood for this project. Think I’ve got all the tools. Now I just need to find someone selling used spare time on eBay.
i have started building this project but am confused as to where the light or candle will sit in the finish? as the cutting list does not require a bottom panel. nice project thanks for another wonderful lesson
I learn a new skill every video I think. Thanks Paul.
Paul another great video, I love how you show using common tools on such small pieces, great tips, Thanks !
Steve
Great series on the lamp. I am curious about one thing. Rather than all of the adjusting of the router depth in the vise for each half lap, why not just leave it set at the correct depth and tape a shim(s) on each side of the table for the piece to ride on? Remove the shims as the bulk of the waste is reduced until you get to where the router will finish it off. I’ve done it in reverse for tenons, housing dado’s etc and it has worked fine.
I’m obsessed with Paul and am morphing into him as skills increase (I started a year ago, and have a lot to learn…) Seen scores of his videos but never had a countering view til he worked with the upside-down router in this vid. I’m guessing this was his maiden effort (imagine) for that technique. Way too much effort to change depth, you can’t see what you’re doing, and I cringed, expecting a tear-out on the far side.
If you happen to read this, Paul, let us know if I’m completely out to lunch, hardly an unlikely scenario.
I’m going back just now to view this one…Paul, you’ve given us all a marvelous gift…thank you
Many times I have heard you refer to “bruised wood”. I have seen wood that has been dented, but, torn etc. But, I have no idea what a bruise is. Can you show an example?
Take a piece of soft pine and drag a knife line across it. Then look at it real close and you will see that the angle of the bevel on the knife makes a v cut in the wood.
When you cut against a straight edge you lean the knife. This makes one side straight and the outside beveled.
If you set the straight edge on the good side the bruising or bevel will be cut off or out. If you cut on the other side you will have a faint shadow between the two pieces being joined because of the bevel.
Bruising?
It’s a bit like when you get a punch on the chin in a rowdy pub.
Take a piece of wood.
Give it a knock with a metal hammer – then look at the indentation. That is a ‘bruise’. It is a local compression of the wood grain.
Next, take a very hot household iron and a piece of wet rag.
Place the wet rag over the ‘bruise’, apply the iron until steam rises.
The ‘bruise’ will have disappeared…. you may have to repeat the iron-trick for deep indentations.
Bruising
Look at the the pictures and drawing of the blog ” what’s ‘knifewall’ ” dated 27 December 2017.