Winding Sticks – Episode 2
Posted 20 March 2015
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To finish off the winding sticks, Paul cuts and fits the piece for contrasting top edge before gluing it in place. Then the light coloured inserts require some very careful cutting and recessing. With those done Paul cleans up the winding sticks before making sure they are the same size and applying a finish.
thank you so much for the effort you put in to teach us not just how but why also
The black strip makes a big difference. I will put one on mine!!
Paul, just a joy to watch a craftsman at work. These can be purchased, but nothing will compare to your hand made sticks. Thanks for taking the time to teach us how its done.
Mike
Paul, you’re such a great teacher. Thanks for this.
It is as Colonel Travis said : not only the winding sticks (which , by the way – are a wonderfull technique), but the way you are doing them.Maybe , that’s what a master it’s all about.Thank you.
Loved it.
Thanks Paul. Time to replace my shoddy pair! Just used em an hour ago to establish the face of a stock blank.
Cheers
John
Great work.
I wonder why you did not show installing the ebony strip?
did you use a plow plane?
He does that in Episode 1. This is a two part series. He shows a few ways to do it.
Just great, as always.
“Close enough for an Englishman” made me laugh.
And the inlay techniques here are relevant to many other applications.
These winding sticks are next on my list.
Thanks
Paul J
Enjoyed the winding sticks. Especially like the details you add and that you give the reasons for the details.
Paul, You are a joy to watch and inspirational to hear. Maybe later you will give us a look see at
the ebony installation. Thanks so much for your valuable time.
Best Regards,
Jim Childress
i think he shows the ebony strip in part one.
You are a master in what you do sir. I enjoy every video I watch and I soak up all the information like a sponge.
Mark
I was interested to hear about the darker wood contaminating the lighter wood. That happened to me last year when I made a pair out of purpleheart and birch.
I was also interested to learn what is considered to be an acceptable tolerance. As I understood it, Paul was happy with one-tenth of a millimeter. Did I hear that right?
I have this image of someone clearing out my workshop in some future time and saying what are these stick and throwing them out. Still, how lovely to watch you make them. So much to learn and so little time.
That for all your time making the videos you do.
Thank You Paul, WWMC team and Greg!
Video and drawing are great!
Defiantly will make a pair, great video’s, Thank You so much.
Steve
Lovely video, as always. Really appreciate it.
David
I’ve been following you a bit over a year now, maybe 18 months, and I cannot think of one single other way to better spend my woodworking budget. You’re a gifted teacher and a master of the craft. I’m so pleased you decided to share your knowledge and skills with the world.
Thanks Paul, we always say “close enough for government work” .
Paul thanks for sharing with us your knowledge. Thanks to you and all who make possible, that we have the teacher at home.
Best regards
Excellent short series for an essential shop tool. It took me a while to understand how vital they are to woodworking. I rely and trust them now to keep my tables flat and my cabinets square. Thanks for showing us a way of making a wonderful pair to upgrade any we might have. I have some mahogany that would be perfect for these.
I just made a pair this afternoon with scrap pieces I had kicking around. I love small projects that let me use up saved scrap. Oak, with walnut and maple inlays. I made one mistake – I made my dovetail inlays upside down! Oh well, I went with it and I’ll still have a useful tool. Thanks for the instruction.
PAUL
I LOVE THE WAY YOU WORK WOOD. I HAVE LEARNED A LOT FROM YOU THANKS.
JIM
the camera work is exceptional in these videos . especially close up shots, along with Paul’s explanation of the process it gives the viewer a crystal clear understanding ,great
I love this box. Half way through this project in pine and looking forward to doing one in red oak or cherry as a hope chest for my daughter…
Any word on whats up next?
Looks fantastic. I love the care and detail that go into some of the simpler items like this and your saw horses etc.
Since I found these videos only last week I think I have watched most of them.They are very well done. It seems that the very end of the clip is cut off in both 1&2.
Funny thing is that when I run them through in my head I sound very English.
That last few minutes showed some excellent camera work. Hats off to whoever was on camera at that last point. It really shows how those light inlays on the rear stick make it much more obvious.
Thank you Paul and team for another great lesson.
Bill, I agree completely. Great work by the videographer and as always outstanding presentation by Paul! Thanks team you are doing so much good for so many.
Par excellence.
Thank you Paul for taking the time to teach us the traditional carpentry, I enjoy watching your videos very much and have learned a lot.
I cut the Sapele board in half, along its length, diagonally, this morning. I was pretty happy as I was able to stay on line for the full length (16 inches) of the cut. I ran into a problem though. After I had ripped down about 3 inches or so, I saw that the kerf at the beginning of the cut had closed up some. The further I cut, the tighter the kerf closed. Must have relieved the stresses of this particular board, as you had mentioned it might do. So now, when I hold a straight edge along the length of the board, on the beveled face, The straight edge contacts the ends, but shows a gap in the middle of almost 1/8th inch – the board has a hollow along its length on the beveled side, and is crooked (I believe that’s what it’s called?) on the opposite face.
Anything I can do about that? If I plane the length of the wood, to make it flat across its length, I will have to remove way too much material. Should I just wait a few days and see if the board acclimates itself to my shop, and straightens itself out, at least partially, and then plane it?
Any help, or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Kenny
Wouldn’t it be easier and also faster and smarter to have the black strip along the entire top of the front strip? That way you wouldn’t have to worry about conflicting grain direction between the mahogany and the ebony, as well as all that fussing with the rebate which seemed to be both time consuming and precarious from a clamping perspective. One last benefit would be that the front stick is therefore bidirectional. I really enjoyed the two part series, now all I have to do is get some ebony or purpleheart for the project!
Thanks for a great lesson, not having any experience with inlay I enjoyed watching your methods, it’s great seeing the variety ways of working and tools to achieve the the outcome.
Larry.
I just now re-watched this video years after it was first released. This video, and many other of Paul’s videos in that era, were true “Master Classes, i.e., geared to experienced woodworkers who wanted to up their hand-tool game. Many of the techniques I use to produce quality furniture I learned from watching Paul Sellers in action.
Unfortunately (for me, not for Paul), within a year or so Paul began a shift into a wider audience, i.e., beginners and those with few woodworking skills, including those who operate on very limited budgets. As such, the kind of content in this video began to wane. I completely understand this shift, and I trust Paul is going prescisely where his heart and mind lead, but for me, too little of his current content is designed to attract people hoping to take a “Master Class.” For me, the “jumping the shark” moment was when he built a workbench out of plywood.
But hey, my compaints aside, this video is a joy to watch. You can watch it twenty times and learn something new each time. I think he cut that rebate for the ebony strip four different ways, and the set on his No. 4 never fails to amaze. In those days he would show off some of his amazing took kit, and in this video Paul uses that Preston router. Try and find one of those these days.
Keep on Truckin’ Paul.
Well unless your bar for beginner level projects is a lot higher than mine, we can’t really put much of the Sellers House furniture in that category.
For me at least the mix is about right. And the sheer quantity of output is extraordinary. 40+ substantial projects in the 5 years since the plywood workbench and I wouldn’t class more than 6-10 as beginner level – have you looked at the video gallery recently?
Getting the plans and cutting lists up to date would be welcome however.
Wishing Paul a speedy recovery.