Wall Hung Tool Cabinet – episode 4
Posted 16 December 2015
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The dovetails are all cut, so it’s time to check they all go together. With that done Paul decides on the orientation of the cabinet so that he can start the layout of the frame which will divide off the space for the drawers. He talks through the features of the panel and lays out the housing dadoes that he then cuts into the main carcass.
Thanks guys, great job 😉
What brand adjustable holdfast are you using? Thanks
It is a Juuma from Fine Tools in Germany.
Paul another great idea with dog / hold fast holder vice accessory thing! Great video!
Wonderful Video offering Paul. I happily await your book. I just may have to build a coffee table on which to place it. 🙂
I am learning so much with every project and episode you make, I will probably use pine as this is what is readily availble to me. Thanks for all of the tips and tricks you use. As I have mentioned I really don’t need another cabinet but want to make this one.
Thanks again !
Steve
Your bench dog system is sweet. This is some of the best money i have ever spent; like going to a fine school.
hi Paul,
I noticed that the juuma holddown was leaving marks on the wood.
Are they compression marks or just from the newness of the rubber foot?
Sorry, that was supposed to be a “reply” to the next query.
It is from the pads. As with all holdfasts, they need a wooden pad between to workpiece.
Is the hand router used with the Spear-Point or straight cutter for Dado cutting?
ooo that’s a good question. I’d love to know as well.
I suspect he’s using the square cutter but only as that’s all I’ve ever seen in his videos and blogs. Not saying he doesn’t use the spear point – it seems like Paul skews the cutter by feel to get the best cut.
Paul’s Blog entry “questions-answered-what-are-pointed-blades-for-on-router-planes”
Answers my own question.
There are a number of blog articles devoted to the 71 Router.
(I have come to realize that you can generally answer your own questions with a quick “JFGI”
(Just F** Google It!!)
Thank you for the lesson.
Hi Paul. Early in Episode 4 you show where a board bowed while sitting overnight. I guess in the best of situations, we’d be able to cut the joinery, get everything fitted and glued up, and apply finish in one glorious woodworking session. Oh well. It’s a nice thought, right? LOL Anyway, on the topic of storing work pieces overnight … What would be the pros and cons for assembling the pieces and leaving them that way overnight? Would the joinery reduce or eliminate wood movement even though the joints are not glued? On the other hand, would overnight compression inside the joints cause them to loosen up?
I’d like to know your thoughts.
Thank you for all the great work you and your crew are doing!
Hello Steve, it did mark the wood somewhat. All holdfasts do mark the wood, so it is best to use a block or shim in-between to avoid this.
Best, Phil
Paul, craftsmen in the pre-power days must have been a very patient group of people. Why thin down all those 3/4″ boards to 9/16ths ?
My favorite of Paul’s videos, the comment about how we all desire to build something that will be talked about by our grandchildren.
I really wish you hadn’t hyped up router planes so much because now I can’t afford one lol, I need one so bad and see you use yours for every project, do you have an extra that you could trade?
You can always make the poor mans router plane, or you can follow one of the other you tube videos for making a router plane, or look on the second hand tool websites for a granny’s tooth router. I have a shop made one using an allen key and a ring bolt with a wing nut.
If you truly must have a 70/71 type, don’t rely on ebay, shop around. Just looking at the two UK sites I look at, I see one for 40 pounds and one for 100 pounds.
Or buy a cheap wooden rebate plane and attach some depth adjusters to the sides.
Don’t let collectors stop you woodworking, there’s always another way to do these things.