Carved Mirror Frame: Episode 4
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We’re ready for the fox wedging of the tenons. Paul cuts the kerf in the tenons, then cuts the wedges, before gluing them up, making sure the joints tighten as they are seated. The peak is cut using a sliding bevel to get the angle for the mitre, as well as bevelling two of the edges for appearance. Then the haunches can be removed and cleaned up.
Another great video, I learned something new with wedges that frame will never come apart. Thanks Paul and crew for another enjoyable video.
Steve
Lot your scrub plane? It is right behind you. 🙂 Great video as always, thanks.
–mike–
great lesson thanks, I like it @10 minutes in where Paul say plenty of glue the proceeds to put the thinnest of films of glue known to man, plenty for me still means fill that gap haha
Thank you for the lesson.
I understand that this wedged tenon is stronger than a standard tenon joint. When would you prefer a fox wedged joint over a standard joint? Could someone point out some examples?
Mirror frame, Cupboard door, Toolchest lid, Drawer panel…
Somewhere you’d normally use a standard tenon, but where it’s subjected to frequent / heavy use.
what we should do if we measure from corner to corner and we have a slightly difference? (~ 3 mm). How should be approach this to fix it, beside taking the saw and make some fire wood
Hi,
Paul says:
The 3mm difference depends on the size of the frame. 3mm is actually is only 1.5mm out of square which is certainly tolerable on this size of frame. If the frame was a ¼ of this size, then you would need to take remedial action. It could be that the shoulders from side to side are not equal and so need correction, or the positioning of your clamps has caused compression in the join line and forced the frame out of square. Without holding the frame in my hand it is hard to make that evaluation.
Kind Regards,
Izzy