33 Comments

  1. Naughty Paul, tweaking the metric advocates. Soon, when your Brexiteers complete their great work of declaring independence from the tyranny of the EU, England will be free once again to reject that French system of measurement and return to the glory days of the imperial system! US and UK will be so powerful together that all other countries will have to follow. Or maybe not…what do I care anyway, I don’t measure, I gage everything 😉 The drawer series has been great, well illustrating the power of unhurried, careful use of hand tools. Thanks much.

  2. It appears that you are using a (blue) drill and screws from Aldi. What is your long-term experience with them? The Aldis that I visit don’t carry much of this stuff. but one is undergoing a remodel and expansion and looking forward to an expanded line.

    1. What is funny with US citizen is that their government has succeeded in making them believe US is not metric.
      The Congress is competent to define units. The first thing the Congress decided is making the metric system legal for commercial transaction in USA in 1866.
      Then USA has ratified “la convention du mètre” in 1875.
      What is known as the US customary system has only been defined by the Mendenhall Order of 1893. Since 1893, the internationally adopted metric standards have served as the fundamental measurement standards of the United States. The non-metric units have been defined in terms of the metric standards ever since.
      So the Imperial system has never had any legal value in USA and the US customary system doesn’t exist by itself.
      You should know that in the “Système international d’unités (SI)” there is nothing left from the initial “French” metric system. The definitions have been changed while refining the standards.
      US citizen should be proud of the NIST contribution to that process.
      Nice stories here:
      https://www.nist.gov/timeline#event-a-href-node-774436measures-for-the-marketplace-a

  3. Loved the series. Very well done. I followed along each week and now just have to do the final fitting and making the wood drawer pull. I really appreciate all the details that are shown on each episode. By doing a little each week, I could work slowly and keep up. I am sure these episodes are designed this way to help build skills for handwork and learning patience.
    For those who would like ideas on how to make a wooden drawer pull, search YouTube for “How to Turn Pulls Without a Lathe”, made by Fine Woodworking.

  4. I really enjoyed the workbench drawer series. I plan to add one to my bench in the near future. It would really be nice to have a place for all those little items that need a convenient home.

    Many thanks for sharing this!

  5. Paul,
    Thank you for this series. Where it will help me immediately is for a drawer for my daughter’s bedroom nightstand. The plans I purchased were designed for machines. I am doing it by hand tools. Much of the modifications I have done were from other videos you’ve done. This series on how to make a drawer will be immensely helpful. Thank you.

  6. Paul, in the pictures it looks like you only finished the front of the drawer and left the rest unfinished. Is that the case? I seem to remember reading from somewhere that if you finished the sides you risk expanding the material. Is that indeed the case?

    Thanks,

    Andrew

  7. Hi everyone, thanks for all the fantastic tips. I’m building a big ‘farmhouse’ bed in pine and want to put 4 large drawers (2’ wide each) into the sides. Is there a size/weight point when the wood friction becomes too great and I would have to use a sliding runner of some sort?

  8. Is there ever a time where you would want to harden the drawer bottom or runner to increase the lifetime of the piece? Like some kind of thin epoxy layer?

    As always, thanks for the unparalleled level of craftsmanship and education.

    1. Hi Mike,

      Paul says no, i’ve seen pine chest of drawers over 100 years old that have stood the test of time. Personally I would just use the drawers and if in 70 years time they are worn I would add a strip. Epoxy will only be as strong as the sub wood and because the sub wood is spongey the epoxy will probably break down before the wood.

      Kind Regards,
      Izzy

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