Wooden Tray: Episode 2

Posted 7 December 2018

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With the base prepared and cut to size, Paul shapes the base by bevelling the bottom edge and rounding over the top edge. Then it is ready to be screwed onto the body of the tray and a finish is applied to round out the project.

Previous: Wooden Tray: Episode 1

40 Comments

  1. Hi Paul,
    before glueing some boards to a larger panel i try to orient all single boards with the grain looking in the same direction. That’s not always possible because of the anticipated shrinkage and the appearance of the jointed panel. But i think, it makes plaining the glued piece a lot easier.

    In addition to face and edge marks on the single boards i draw an arrow in their grain’s direction on the face side. Is this common and do you have any recommendations for such a technique?

    Thank you!

    1. Hi Lub,

      I have passed on your query to Paul and his answer is below:

      Not really. The more important is the visual rather than the grain orientation and with judicious preparation, the board can be close enough to require finishing with a scraper.

      Kind Regards,
      Izzy

  5. Why did Mr. Sellers use screws and not just glue the bottom to the sides like the dovetail boxes. Which in a larger size could be a tray as well. Any concern that the glue would not hold more weight that a tray might hold?

  6. Hello Paul,

    You cut the board to length holding it in the vise (tilted), that’s fine once you mastered the hand saw, but for beginners what kind of clamp system would you recommend? a bench hook? I’ve never seen you using a bench hook and that makes me wonder if perhaps is a bad idea.

    Thank you.

    1. Paul mentioned in one of his other (much older) videos that some people prefer to use a bench hook but he doesn’t care for them. He said there was no problem if you chose to use one, he just doesn’t like them much.

    2. You can do it exactly as Paul is doing. Set a knife wall, get the saw running in it, and then drop the heel of the saw along the edge saw mark. It doesn’t matter what angle that mark makes relative to the floor. Just follow it. It’s no harder or easier when the line is tilted.

  8. Thanks Paul. This is a beautiful project. I can’t wait to make some.

    I do have a question about the need for sanding. After getting a silky smooth surface from handing planing, it kills me to run sandpaper over the wood.

    I know you have mentioned sandpaper adds a bite to the surface to help finish stick. I think you had a post showing something Hanah did with shellac with a hand planed vs hand planed then sandpapered surface but I couldn’t find it. I mostly work with shellac. What would happen if I didn’t follow up with sand paper after hand plaining and used shellac? Just trying to learn and understand to make the best finish possible. If you say to do it I believe you. Many thanks.

    1. Some people sand, some don’t, although it depends upon what you are doing. I was taught that dyes and stains can have difficulty penetrating some woods after planing, so a light sanding with 180 or 220 opens up the surface. Some projects will have surfaces produced in various ways, e.g., planed surfaces, rasped and and filed curves, scraped contours, and scraped surfaces. Sanding evens all of this out. Finally, a project can present both face grain and end grain. The top of the tray is face grain, but some curved profiles, like on cabriole legs, turned knobs, and shaped aprons, are actually end grain or somewhat end grain-ish, and they will go dark when dye or stain is applied. You can sand the to a higher grit, e.g., sand surfaces to 180 or 220 and end grain up to 320 and 600 to burnish them and hold back the color, hoping to get a more uniform result. Some people, though, don’t sand, and feel it gives a better result. You’ll have to experiment, but that’s some of the thinking I was taught.

      1. Thanks Ed. Makes sense.

        I just bought some wood so I can make 8 of these as gifts this year. That’s why a year between my initial question and response to you. Was brushing up on the video before I started.

    2. Hi Martin,

      Paul says all of the water-based finishes are fast drying and will usually be dry within few minutes however the manufacturers recommend an hour between coats. In this case, Paul used Ronseal Satin finish.

      Kind Regards,
      Izzy

      1. People should be very cautious with this advise about drying. With one exception, the various water born products I use require one to two hours in perfect conditions between coats. Do what the label says and be aware that there is chemistry happening after the water evaporates and after the surface appears dry. “Dry and free of water” does not equal being ready to recoat. If you’ve waited the time required by the manufacturer and if the surface produces a dry powder when scuffed with decent abrasive paper, then it is probably okay to recoat. Not allowing proper drying can lead to difficult finishing problems. I’m sure Paul is working properly, but the wording of the advise, above, may confuse or mislead some people. The fastest water born finish I have ever seen permits recoating in 25 to 30 minutes in perfect conditions and the manufacturer states this as minimum. Be aware, though, that some finishes have a maximum, too, and if you go too long, then you must wait even longer. Some poly’s, Minwax oil based poly for example, must be recoated within a few hours and, failing that, must be allowed to sit for 72 hours.

        Bottom line: No matter what you have done with other products, you must read the info for each product and do what the manufacturer says.

  10. Hi Paul,
    Do you a source for quality brass slot screws? I don’t know who makes good ones. I don’t mind waiting for them to arrive. So you a list of sizes you like to keep handy in the shop? I am basically making the range of projects you show on the !aster Classes. Thank you.

  11. an end nub snapped off one of my pieces, do you think gluing it back on would be strong enough to continue rounding it over? If not I may just shorter the piece and cut a new half lap further up the board.

  13. What a fantastic and elegant first project you have designed for us.
    I am a complete newby and am really excited to find your new sites Paul.

    have watched the 2 videos and can see how much thought you have put into the tutorials.
    They are packed with different techniques, great for beginners like me.

    Complete step by step guidance.

    Thank you Paul and gang

    look forward to what is to come.

  14. I enjoy and learn a lot from the videos.
    One question: why the very long screw driver. In a situation with a predrilled hole that has a preformed thread I would use a short stubby screwdriver. The point is to minimise any chance of the screwdriver slipping and gashing the wood. With a long bladed screwdriver there is much less control.
    Just my take as a retired dentist where control over your tools is essential.
    Charles Friedman
    Southern Coastal California

    1. I suspect it was for no reason other than it was the screwdriver he had at hand. As you noted, those of us lacking Paul’s total mastery of tools should opt for the short stubby variety. Paul presents techniques and oftentimes multiple methods of performing the same task … implementation details are at our discretion based on our comfort level.

  15. I just finished building Tim Rousseau’s Asian-inspired hall table in black walnut. This tray in walnut and maple will look great sitting on top. The cambered sides and ends will tie nicely to the curved aprons, top supports and legs of the table. Even the crossed ends of the tray sides will tie to the through-tenons of the table. The underside of the table is chamfered just like the underside of the tray. Perfect! Thank you .

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