Reply To: Drawer slides on solid wood sides

Here’s one way: Assume the long grain is running vertically on the side of the carcase. Seasonal expansion changes the depth of the cabinet, which will affect how the drawer sits (flush or proud) in the cabinet. Notice that the drawer width and height are defined by long grain in the carcase, so those are stable.

Cut housings in the carcase sides at the drawer locations. Put drawer runners into those housings *cross grain.* In other words, the drawer runners have long grain along the direction of the drawer movement. Because the runner is cross grain, you only glue the front of the runner for a few inches and put a screw in a loose hole at the back. If you glue the whole length, you risk cracking the side.

The drawer itself is long grain along its depth into the cabinet. So, you now have long grain (drawer) on a long grain runner, which is stable. Put a glue block at the back of the runner to set the drawer position. Seasonal movement means the carcase sides expand and contract around the runners. Note that you need a little gap between the glue block and the back of the carcase comparable to how much the sides are expected to move.

You don’t really need the housings. You could have used screws all along. Another variation of this is to make a frame that the drawer slides on, perhaps with a dust shield, but the concept is the same.

Look at some drawings or photos and you’ll start to see how people deal with this. Paul’s recent two drawer organizer was slightly different in that he put the glue blocks at the front of the drawer. Have a look at his blog.

That’s how I understand this stuff to work.