I think you could consider stoning the two sides of this errant Veritas dovetail saw. IF the problem is too much set that can help a lot, by reducing it.
It aslo cleans burrs on the outside edges of teeth that may have been left from manufacture or your own filing, thereby reducing ripping on the outcut. Worth remembering the outcut side should always be the less seen side of your piece btw, as Paul teaches.
Too much set results in an overwide kerf, which gives the sawplate space to jiggle from side to side and make the cut wander. It also will lead to slower cutting, which also decreases accuracy and steaightness of ripping.
To stone you just get a fine sharpening stone and run it from heel to toe along the side of the teeth and the last 5mm of the saw plate. Lie the plate flat on a bench, push the stone flat down on it, and make one or two passes. Minimise the amount of plate you touch as it can scratch, and use light machine oil to lubricate. You could put a sheet of paper on the plate if youre worried, I dont bother. Do this equally on both sides, or if your cut always veers one way do more stoning on that side (veers to right => stone right). Test the saw (by sawing!) every couple of passes, as you don’t want to take too much set off as dovetail saws are a PITA to reset.
It’s meant to be a good saw, you should be able to get it working with perseverence, and you’ll learn more and be a better woodworker for it, compared to just plunking down dollars for a new saw.
Actually one caveat here is that 14 tpi is good for dovetails down to about 3/8” (10mm) thick timber. That’s because each tooth is a touch over 1/16” and you want at least 6 teeth in your workpiece. If you’re working in 1/4” thick timber … yes, you probably need a finer saw, maybe a 20 tpi gents.
- This reply was modified 2 years, 6 months ago by Andrew Sinclair. Reason: fat finger typos