6 negelected panel saws on the way, looking for suggestions on what to do with.
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- This topic has 13 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 7 years, 9 months ago by Alan.
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Well I needed an 26″ saw to re-tooth at 4 tpi rip, and got a deal on mix of 5 diston and Superior saws with one old Craftsman. Since I only have plans for one of them, and already have 8tpi tip, 10tpi rip, 8tpi cross and 9tpi cross, I am looking for recommendations on the other 5 after I clean the plates and determine how many need to be re-toothed. (All of them need serious TLC).
28 January 2016 at 5:37 am #134270Sounds like you’re pretty well set up for panel saws. If you get the first saw filed to 4 tpi rip, then I’m not sure what you need for the other saws. Maybe this depends on the length of the saws. I have the Pax 26″ 5.5 tpi rip saw, but really wish I had a shorter panel saw for ripping. Maybe 20 inches or so.
Are all you newly purchased saws 26″? If some are shorter, maybe you could get yourself a nice shorter panel saw.
I’m not certain about the nomenclature, but I thought saws of 26″ were called hand saws whereas panel saws were about 16-20″ long.
Let us know how it goes.
For the retoothing, do you use Paul’s method with the hacksaw? If so, which hacksaw blades do you use? The ones I used to retooth my 12tpi tenon saw weren’t great at all. They were the Eclipse metal cutting 32tpi blades which are usually very highly thought of. They would keep snapping and breaking teeth off. I managed to do it in the end but for the single saw I went through about 8 blades. I also found that using them on the pull stroke worked slightly better for some unknown reason.
- This reply was modified 8 years, 3 months ago by raze599.
@mattmcgrane, You may be right about the length and name. I have always heard saws without backs referred to interchangeably as panel/hand saws. I will know Saturday for sure, but I believe all are 26″. It was good deal for the 6, so if nothing else after I clean them up I may put them back up for “adoption”.
@raze599, I do use Paul’s method. Biggest issue I have is at 16tpi or higher the wood guide tends to come apart as I cut. I used some random homedepot 32tpi hacksaw blades on a standard hacksaw. Probably need to get a junior as the blades have a much finer kerf. Sounds like you just got a bad batch of blades. I did not even dull the one blade I used on a 14in Tenon recut to 16 tpi.So my saws arrived and I found a very nice surprise, well several actually. The first is the 4 disstons are pre-WW2 vintage with the oldest looking to be a D20 from 1927 or early.
[attachment file=”20160202_201127_003.jpg”]
This last one gets a full restoration for my collection for sure. The next is one of the Disston’s appears to be a Disston tree or greenwood saw based on tooth pattern. The saw appears to be a D22 till you look at the teeth.
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You can see the double tooth pattern common on tree sawsThe last two are a “Warranty Superior” of similar age and much more recent Craftsman saw.
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- This reply was modified 8 years, 2 months ago by ehisey.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.I too recently acquired a few panel/hand saws – a job-lot of FIFTEEN, mainly Distons.
Funny how I’ve gone through most of life with only the one blunt saw and now have more than I can imagine a use for.Looking forward to Paul’s take on Crosscut Sharpening.
There are so many methods & opinions on sharpening, number-of-teeth… on the internet.
I think I’ve seen most of them, but I feel the more I learn, the less I know.@alan, if you listen in the saw sharpening video for rips, he mentions how to do it I believe. Anyway the way I do mine is to follow the progressive rip method but at a 15 degree off perpendicular to the plate. By starting at the second tooth and working toe-heel every other tooth, then flipping the saw around and repeat on the other side, I get a nice sharp cross-cut pattern.
Last batch of saws came in and turns out 4 of the 8 are between 1870 and 1920, with two more around WW2. Of the last 2 one is modern stanley handyman and the other a no name with a splitting plywood handle of recent make.
I’ve only just seen your comment to me (I must have forgotten to flag this topic).
Thank-you!I’ll watch the video again, and I’ll try as you suggest.
I can’t wait to have a saw that cuts wood properly.I’ve just received my first two saw-files from Amazon this week – why do they still sell files without handles?
One of MY saws is from around 1870-1890 too.
Disston certainly knew how to make saw handles. They fit the hand like a glove.
So light, comfortable, balanced.. it’s a pleasure just to pick one up!21 April 2016 at 4:29 pm #136566If one of the saws isn’t real old and the one with a plywood handle you could cut the blade down to 16 or 18″ if you want a shorter panel saw. I have a 18″ panel saw which I use most of the time which I need to sharpen.
I wouldn’t cut down the older saws unless they are really in bad shape.
Steve
21 April 2016 at 9:44 pm #136571I really feel that you cannot have too many saws (my wife disagrees). Maybe you could cleans them up and find someone to give them too. I have a couple very young nephews that if either was interested in woodworking I would give them some tools to get started.
I seem to have neglected my threads. Restoration is coming along on the saws, and I just enjoy how well the old saws work when restored to former glory.
As to the recent saw with busted handled, as the plate and spin are of nice quality, I am going to simply make a new handle for it by copying a Disston back saw handle.
@tomangle, I probably will end up either giving away or re-ebaying the extra saws. Especially as I am still looking for a good 5TPI Rip candidate. The saws I have are either to nice to change that much or not worth the effort.Well spent to day tackling old saws. Spent way to much time on a nameless modern 16″ backsaw that had a good plate but a terrible, terrible handle. After way to many hours, I know have a very comfortable 16″ backsaw to finish sharpening, with a new handle from some random hardwood I found in my shop. Still need to stain and shellac it, but I will do that at the same time as I do the other 3 handled on my bench.
Kind a proud of my first saw handle, bad as it is.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.Update on the slow saw restore. Nice antique disston, 1880-90 based on medallion and stamp, ready for the shop. Seller only sent halve the last saw nut :(. At some point I need to bid on some replacements.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.Has anyone here ever re-cut teeth to cut green wood?
One of the saws in my job-lot has HUGE teeth – something between 2TPI & 3TPI.I was wondering whether I could form “W” shaped teeth by filing each point into two, as with a Bow Saw?
I don’t need to do pruning or cut logs, but I could really use a saw for cutting the bottom 2″ from the Christmas Tree each year. With fifteen saws needing restoration, it seems daft to buy another just for Xmas trees.
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