Adjustment wheel blocking my hand
Welcome! / Forums / General Woodworking Discussions / Tools and Tool Maintenance/Restoration / Adjustment wheel blocking my hand
- This topic has 37 replies, 11 voices, and was last updated 7 years, 6 months ago by oltexasboy.
-
AuthorPosts
-
22 September 2016 at 7:53 pm #140750
Dean,
I find the mechanics of blade adjustment a bit challenging, what with the double reversal.
I think your blade may be short. Here’s why.
The thread on the adjuster knob is left handed. When you turn clockwise, the knob moves out or back toward the tote. It connects to the blade via the “Y adjuster lever”. The location of the lever’s pivot reverses the motion, so as the knob move toward the tote, the blade drops further down towards/into the work.
If you need the knob way back just to catch a few thou, the blade should be short.
So, a new blade could help.
I attached a photo of my war-era with its non-matching frog and brass adjuster knob. The blade is retracted, so the gap to my knuckle is at its maximum. That said, I don’t really notice if I occassionally touch my knuckle to my work. So I guess I have plenty of room, even with an old blade.
Most likely, a combo of a new blade, straightening the lateral adjuster lever, and then carving a new tote will get you comfortable, but if not, you might do better to trade up to a #5.
Cheers,
Rick G.
- This reply was modified 7 years, 7 months ago by Richard Guggemos.
- This reply was modified 7 years, 7 months ago by Richard Guggemos.
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.22 September 2016 at 8:37 pm #140763I started with the he idea that the blade was
Worn short. But the cap iron sets the length not the blade. So the problem should
Have to be in the capniron.
On the new veritas cap iron and the stanley the length is the same.
I will make a new tote it may help. But i like the ide of another new plane. I need an excuse for an#5Dean, a couple of points.
First, the WWII frog adjustment knob is about a sixteenth of an inch longer longer than a prewar brass knob. That’s measuring horizontally from the point where it contacts the yoke to the surface that contacts your knuckles.
More significantly, the Veritas iron is, I’m pretty sure, noticeably thicker than the stock iron. That’s why you have to move the frog so far rearward and also why you have to run the adjustment knob all of the way out (The thicker iron positions the blade higher above the frog surface so the yoke has to move a greater distance to move the iron assembly than it would with a stock iron.
What to do?
Switch to a stock Stanley iron. If you don’t have one the Chinese made Buck Bros irons sold at Home Depot are supposed to be decent.
Alternatively, you could take a file to the forward edge of the plane’s mouth to accommodate the thicker iron.
Modifying the handle, as mentioned above, is another possibility.
24 September 2016 at 4:13 am #140834The veritas blade is 20 tho. thicker. 100 vs 80 tho. It isnt a hock thick blade.
Your thoughts on the knob are spot on though.
With the blade set 1/16 from the capniron both the old stanley in it and the new veritas allow a bit more room for the finger. As well as a tad bit more roomin the plane mouth. Still cuts a fine shaving even though.I am a bit late to this thread, but another suggestion is to change your grip. I have very large hands and I have the same issue, especially on my #3. I switched to an open grip like you would use on a wooden coffin smoother. So instead of just pointing your index finger and resting it on the frog, I point all four of my fingers and I just grip the handle with my thumb. This helped me in two ways, it avoids the interference with the wheel, and it helped me stop “bulldoging” the plane as PS would say.
$0.02 from the peanut gallery. YMMV (Your Milage May Vary)
30 September 2016 at 1:21 am #141056That will work , yessir.
Normally i have one finger tucked under one pointing down the plane and two in the tote. If i keep high i can miss the knob but sometimes i get caught behind the knobM
1 October 2016 at 7:44 pm #141112Update.
Replaced the adj knob with an old brass one. Finger now clears.11 October 2016 at 11:58 pm #141316I have one just like yours, and even though it doesn’t show well in the photo the adjuster is just slightly bigger and the hub is slightly thicker than a standard #4, because it is plastic. If you have a junker laying around you can replace the adjuster and it will give you a little bit more room for you digits.
-
AuthorPosts
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.