Back saw
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Hello,
Has anyone seen or heard of anyone shortening a back saw? I have a number of long back saws (24 -25 inches) that would make great tenon saws, if shorter. I have searched the net to no avail. Any comments/suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you.
Rick
Back saws that long are probably miter saws? So pretty thick plate, I’m guessing, correct me if I’m wrong. Set and tpi might differ slightly from what is considered optimal for a tenon saw, but those are easily changed, if necessary. They’ll be tall for tenon saws, but that extra height supposedly makes it easier on the eye to keep in proper plumb, and the tradeoff might be that they’re a touch more demanding to get started. If it’s unpleasant, the height of the plate is easily reduced.
I don’t have any experience in this conversion, but I don’t see any reason why shortening + re-purposing them shouldn’t be a success.
One thing that just occurred to me: when you cut the spine, you’ll leave an opening, so you’d want to remove length from the heel side, wouldn’t you, since the brass is already split on that side. That’ll mean you’ll need to re-drill the holes for the saw nuts. Not a show-stopper, just a bit more work.
Unless I’m missing something else…
Thank you. They are miter saws. A few have 3 1/2 inch saw plates, so not far from tenon saws size. And you’re right – a tad bit thicker plate. Worth a go I think. I was planning on taking extra length off toe. It seems easier. Will take another her look at the spines and see how they terminate. All of the saws have steel spines. Thanks again.
9 April 2017 at 7:21 am #310957The handles are usually a bit different as well. Miter saws have longer handle cheeks and angled saw plates at the rear to clear the saw post in the box that makes them a bit harder to control when they aren’t in the box.
Also, the “hang” of the saws are different. Miter saws are configured for pushing only. Their massive weight provides the force on the teeth. Backsaws are designed so you push down and forward by the tilt of the handle.
Here’ a miter saw and a backsaw of approximately the same plate depth.
This particular backsaw has a plate about the same thickness as the miter saw. I have an older backsaw the same. size that has a thinner plate.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.9 April 2017 at 7:31 am #310960I should have mentioned in the post above that you should look at how the backs meet the handles. The shorter saw is a steeper angle( hang).
Both handles are aimed at the center of their respective tooth lines. If you just shorten the miter saw, the handle would be pointed at the front of the shortened saw.
Thank you. Great input. Had thought briefly about repositioning the handle after shortening but decided against it. If I reposition to achieve a more appropriate hang, it makes more sense to shorten at the heel and then reattach the handle. Thank you again.
Rick
P.s. appreciate the images – very helpful.
10 April 2017 at 9:17 pm #310982Probably a more dramatic example is the saws at either end of the spectrum a joiner might have in his kit.
The first is another 16″ Disston #4 tenon saw, and the little one is an 8″ number four which I believe was the smallest they made with a closed grip.
Let us know how the cutdown goes.
- This reply was modified 7 years ago by Larry Geib.
- This reply was modified 7 years ago by Larry Geib.
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