One man’s opinion. I’ve used both planes but have never purchased a 9 1/2.

I prefer the 60 1/2 mainly because it is a more compact tool in your hand and in Your apron pocket. ( ok, I’m dating myself there.)

But there is a caveat. The tool has been made for a century and a quarter and there are many versions of it – more than even most type studies show.

I dislike te new “Sweetheart” version because it weighs a pound more than it needs to, and over a pound more than my 1930’s tool from the sweethart era. The new tool weighs in at 2.3 pounds, according to their literature.

For a similar reason, I dislike my 1980’s English made version with an added lateral adjuster system which I find has limited utility. It weighs 1.78 pounds.

I purchased my first 60 1/2 new as a replacement for a 65 1/2 that went on walkabout, and which I preferred. It weighs 1.45 pounds.

And my favorite 60 1/2 is my 1930’s plane which weighs 1.2 pounds due mostly to a more refined casting. Think about it.. that’s just about HALF the weight of the new Stanley tool.

Also, there are at least two adjuster systems. I prefer the double helix that gives the finest adjustments. The 1970’s tool came with a single helix adjuster, but I found a double helix adjuster that was a no modifications fit.

So it matters which 601/2 you get.

Below are the 1930’s, 1970’s. And 1980’s planes. They look the same, but the heft and feel are decidedly different.

Don’t rule out the #60, which is the same plane with chromed bits, or the 65 1/5, which is 1/4” wider but otherwise the same.
You will probably have to give more for those planes, as they are more sought after, as would be a knuckle cap version of any of those.

The only difference between the 60 and 60 1/2 is the chrome… and price.

The 65 1/2 also should have a chrome cap.

FWIW, I have a Millers Falls 16 (copy of Stanley 9-1/2 I believe) which I keep around solely because it was my great grandfather’s. I only ever used it when helping my dad with carpentry tasks, never for fine work, but I still keep it in my apron just as a keepsake (OK, and it helps me “look the part” also…).

They are pricey but its a good tool.

Here in the pacific NW the price would be “spendy”. ( and the tool would be skookum).

Where I used to live in Pennsylvania Amish country that would be “dear”, the tool “gut”.

• This reply was modified 5 years, 2 months ago by Larry Geib.

So having used the 71 a while, it’s handy can’t deny it does a good job at what it’s designed to do.

That being said, short of a new set of veritas cutters, I’m struggling to find a 1/4 inch straight and 1/2 inch diamond shaped cutter. The flat 1/2 inch is good for most work just wondering if anyone had a source of cutters.

Understood, guess £15 isn’t too unreasonable for tool steel that is easier to sharpen. Time to invest!

Edit: they’re on backorder for 4 weeks! Veritas can’t keep up with the demand that probably follows so many sales on ebay of compatible routers.

• This reply was modified 5 years, 2 months ago by Daniel Loader.

@daniel-loader I wonder how many people use the diamond cutter. Mine just sits in the box. I use the 1/2″ straight almost all of the time. Occasionally, I’ll need the 1/4″. The few times I played with the diamond cutter, my impression was that a) it was harder to sharpen and b) it seemed more of a struggle to get into corners. I suppose the idea of the diamond cutter is that it might give a nicer surface, but since the router is generally leveling a glue-up face that is never seen, it doesn’t seem necessary, and you can skew the straight cutter if you need to. It’s been years since I last tried one, so I hope I’m remembering right!

Even though I have not found a router plane due to the insane prices I Have found that I absolutely LOVE the poor mans router especially because I can have several at the same time at different depths for the price of a chisel, I have added a little wedge on top that makes all the difference in the world to me as far as keeping it tight, the way it works for me is to put in the blade loose to depth or a mil before depth and then tighten the wedge and tap either back or forward for the exact depth which is the tricky part but you start getting used to the sounds of tapping fast