Viewing 9 posts - 16 through 24 (of 24 total)
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  • #20185

    Hi Dan

    No problems! Take your time.

    On the skates : it’s the latter. I can manage to start nicely but at some point a secondary track develops causing the bottom of the rebate to be askew…
    No matter how much of a considerable side force I can apply it always reoccurs. And that’s just in soft wood going with the grain.


    David Gill

    Hi Diego
    I have the Record No 50 and it works very well I would have thought that the Stanley and the Record would be quite similar.
    With the depth stop in place it will cut grooves to a depth of 3/8″ and with out the depth stop I can get grooves to 1/2″ deep .
    I do not have any problem keeping the groove straight as soon as you start the groove the skates drop in to the formed slot making it difficult for the position of the groove to move.
    Have you checked to ensure your skates are dropping into the cut slot without there being much sideways play.The outside width of the two skate would be very close to the width of the cutter being used.I have attached a photo to show the skates in the groove ( not very clear)

    Wigan, Lancs. England :


    Another thought… Make sure the corners of the blades are at 90 degrees to the sides.. If the corners are not proud of the skates and not cutting the wood, it might make the grove wander…


    Take a look at this site (i have no affiliation with it) for some interesting info on multi-planes and setting them up. Might help.

    I too have the Stanley 50 and have some success with it but also frustration – it does seem to take a lot of fiddling to get it set up for a cut, in particular getting it set up take shavings that are neither too thin or too thick seems to be a challenge!


    thank you for your reply.

    I’m glad I’m not the only one who is having trouble with the 50 🙂
    After a bit more trial and error I am getting more into the behavior of the plane.

    One thing I did was lose the adjuster. I have more trouble using it than without. It was not even present in earlier versions of the plane apparently.
    I now set the iron by pushing it firmly on its seat and I also push it to the back side of the plane with my other hand tightening the thumb screw.
    With a bit of exercise, I can get pretty thin shavings now. Before it was nearly impossible to set the iron finely, it moves in an uncontrolled way back and forth. it is still trial and error, but much less frustration. That must be a good thing.

    I had already seen that site, based on that info it was apparent I must have been missing something, based on the results I got.



    thanks for your help and time to look at this.

    After much more practice I’m getting better at it.

    two days ago I managed to get a pretty good tongue and groove fit. Still some issues with wondering to the right though.

    Incidently I found that Paul Sellers had blogged about this too.
    I had read this some time ago but somehow forgot about it. I stand a fool… Must be an old age thing.

    He alludes to some details of difference between the Stanley and record plane irons, with the record irons having a small chamfer on the back side. there are some pics of this in the link above.

    I had already started to change the bevel angle on the irons I was practicing with. Now I am trying to get a square edge with a 30° on my irons but that isn’t easy without a good honing guide…
    I will try the chamfer too and see if my problems disappear :-$



    Diego, I use The Richard Kell No.1 Honing Guide for these Irons, square edge every time.


    Thanks Ken

    This looks like a good one to have but as I am only a beginner the price is still a bit steep. I have already used my birthday credits so maybe I will have to wait another year for this one…
    I may well conjure something up myself as a replacement.


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