DiaSharp® Stone, 220x(DMT)

Welcome! Forums General Woodworking Discussions DiaSharp® Stone, 220x(DMT)

Viewing 9 posts - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)
  • Author
  • #3746

    Hi to all)

    My sharpening set up was:

    800 King Water stone,

    1200 King Water stone,

    5000 Naniwa Super stone,

    8000 Imanishi Ceramic Water stone.

    Yesterday I add : DiaSharp® Stone, 220x(DMT)

    and Veritas honing compound on leather strop.

    I don’t have a lot of experience  with Diamond Plates, after using just for grinding of 4 chisels, I know it is Marpels Blue Chip ,they are very tough compering to A2 and O1 steel, I noticed the texture of the plate is not rough as before,it is steel rough on edges, it is fill more like 600 grit in another word fills smoother. I don’t use extra pressure during sharpening, my worries is this normal? Is this suppose to be like this?I start looking for answers on different forums about  DiaSharp® Stone, 220x(DMT)  and people are not happy have fast this diamond plates wearing comparing to Eze-Lap, Need advice from more experience  user. What is the life term for DiaSharp® Stone, 220x?

    Thanks a lot for help.

    Cheers Serhiy.

    Toronto, Canada


    Hi Serhiy

    I’ve several DMT Duo Sharp’s and they’re still going strong after four or five years and the same for my Eze Lap diamond plates, but what you will tend to discover is that the course diamond becomes finer initially (When you  first begin to use it) as loose surface particles wear off to expose a good cutting surface underneath.  It will remain flat permanently and still cut fast for a very long period of time before the diamond wears down.

    Best advice is to try and use as much of the plate’s surface as possible to ensure even wear throughout it lifespan. 🙂


    My DMT 220 started out feeling like 80 grit sandpaper but after a lot of use its now much smoother.  I’ve had a DMT 600 for about 10 years and its still usable so I have no worries about the longevity of the plates at all.



    Thanks a lot Gary and Dave, good to know all is fine))Thanks for the advice Gary).


    Toronto, Canada



    I’ve bitten the bullet and invested in some diamond stones.  I’ve had the DMT DiaSharpe 8X3″ Fine stone for a couple of weeks, and just today received a DiaSharpe Coarse and and Eze-Lap superfine.  Spent a couple of hours this afternoon setting them into a board as Paul uses on his videos.  Good opportunity to get the router plane out – although the blades on that probably need a good sharpen now!

    A quick question to those that have (0r have used) both DMT and Eze-Lap.  The Eze-Lap superfine stone (which should be 1200 grit) appears to be coarser than the DiaSharpe Fine, which is supposed to be 600 grit.  I would have expected this to be the opposite.  Is this something anyone has noticed before?  Will the Eze-lap ‘break-in’ over time?  It definitely leaves more scratching in the metal that the DMT stone.



    Yorkshireman currently living in Hampshire


    I do know the DMT plates break in over a period of time.  As I mentioned earlier my coarse which they say is 220 grit felt like 80 grit when it was new.  It definitely feels alot more mellow now that its nroken in.  I don’t know Eze-lap but if its made the same way as the DMT I would probably guess they will break in as well.




    I have never used Diamond Plates, please let us know how you get one with them.

    Cheers buddy


    Brent Ingvardsen

    I have used DuoSharp and EZ Lap for four years and theybare still going strong.



    Meridianville, Alabama, USA


    Hi Jon,

    Eze-Lap super fine does feel a little coarse initially but soon eases after the first few honings as surplus diamond detaches to leave a much finer surface texture behind.  This happens with the bulk of diamond plates and is nothing to worry about, but it does pay to try and use as much of the plate’s surface as possible as a means of ensuring even wear. 😉

    It sounds like your DMT Fine has worn in slightly in comparison to your Eze-Lap Superfine, but things will soon settle down.  If possible, try and hone at a slightly diagonal angle to the length of the plate.  This helps you achieve a more even surface finish as each progressive grit should eliminate scratches from the previous grit and leave you with an increasingly refined surface and edge.

    I hope this helps.

Viewing 9 posts - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.