Dutch tool chest questions
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- This topic has 21 replies, 11 voices, and was last updated 9 years, 3 months ago by emilio.remogna.
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6 May 2014 at 5:29 am #56799
I’ve started building a Dutch style tool chest, loosely based on the large one Chris Schwarz built. Mine is wider so my panel saws will fit, and I am thinking of adding drawers to the lower compartments. I also decided to put it together with cut nails and glue rather than screws and glue. I’ve got 8 – 10 hours into it now and have finished the carcase except for the tongue and groove back. The only thing electrical i’ve used so far has been the lights in the shop. 🙂
I haven’t decided yet how to do the panels for the fall front and the top lid. In the article, cleats are used to prevent the panels from warping. I’m thinking breadboard ends wouuld be a moree elegant solution.
I’ve never done breadboard ends before. Are there any tricks or pitfalls I should know about?
6 May 2014 at 3:36 pm #56838Binding shouldn’t be a problem because the lid sits on top of and overlaps the top of the case. But, that’s got me thinking. The breadboard ends have me half the way to a fielded panel (like the top of Paul’s tool chest).
7 May 2014 at 12:13 am #56849I went out to the shop on my lunch hour (I work from home) and started making the tongue and groove boards for the back.
That was a lot of fun and my stress level went way down.
7 May 2014 at 12:37 am #56851Sounds like your making good progress. Be sure to post some photos.
If I worked from home I would soon starve…I would end up in the wood shop all the time. 😉8 May 2014 at 4:02 am #56902Looks like your making good progress. Congratulations on your first hand cut dovetails and I’m looking forward to seeing your further progress.
I like this tool case and have built the smaller version of it last year. I used breadboard ends to keep the top stable as my shop has a great deal of fluctuation in the humidity levels. It has been solid throughout the seasonal changes. Using a flat top is best as when the lid is down, I can use it to put plans on it. The bottom part of the lid has an edge lip that comes up so as to keep the plans ans such from falling to the ground. It can be used as a drafting table in a pinch as well. Rather than putting in drawers, I would suggest that you make some chisel boxes and the like as shown by Paul in the second project in this series. You can build them to suit and then pull them out and use them on the bench in an organized fashion. I made some for my bits, gouges, small router and plow planes and they look good and really keep things organized and allow me to rethink space issues from time to time. Drawers do not let you have that option. Just my 2c worth. All the best on your completing the project. Cheers, Rob.
15 May 2014 at 5:40 am #57138I like the idea of boxes rather than drawers. That would allow more efficient use of the space as well. I like the ledge at the lower edge of the top as well. I think I will add one to mine.
I’ve completed all the parts for mine. I just need to apply the finish and then put it together. Then, of course, comes the fun of fitting out the interior.
I’m off work this week, but I’ve been tied up with yard work and reorganizing the garage (my work shop). I hope to finish this off as soon as I’m finished with the scut work. 🙂
After that, a book case for the wife then I get to start on my new bench.
(Hmm, maybe my current bench is too small to build the book case . . . )25 May 2014 at 11:17 pm #57552Woodworking is much more fun when I’m not spending half of my time looking for a tool that I put down somewhere. 🙂
I need to make some boxes for small parts etc. I’m going to build a base on casters which will lower it about 6 inches from where it sits now (on the workmate). This will make the lid at about the right height for a removable drawing board.
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