Framed Board and Batten Shutters
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- This topic has 3 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 5 years, 6 months ago by Doug Finch.
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14 September 2018 at 12:04 pm #551486
I’ve got a friend that I’m helping out by building him 2 sets of framed Board and Batten shutters out of southern yellow pine. They will be sealed and painted. I’ve attached the sketchup if you want to see what style this is.
The frame will be mortise/tenon and will also have a 1/2″ dado housing (frame is 1 3/8″ thick). The frame pieces will all be glued and I may even use some dowels for added strength in the corners. The vertical slats will be 1/2″ thick and will have a bevel on the long edges for aesthetics. No glue will be used on the ends, however, I will be gluing the long grain sides together – between the slats – but not the housing side. In the southern parts of the US, it is very humid in the summer and very dry in the winter. I’m not gluing the ends of the slats to allow for expansion/contraction. Is this sufficient? Again, this will be primed, sealed and painted. Secondly, the slats themselves; I hadn’t planned on utilizing tongue/groove between them – just glue. Would just glue be sufficient to keep the boards from bowing inside the frame?
Everything I’ve built for other people, up to this point has been for inside only use. I want to make sure this lasts a long time for him.- This topic was modified 5 years, 6 months ago by Doug Finch.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.My experience says most definitely use the dowels at every m/t joint. Unless you are using some high grade construction adhesive even water proof glue can’t stand up to the sun and humidity. Consider using rabbeted edges on the slats. Deep grooves for the ends of the slats will help provide a little resistance to warping. Cull through the wood until you find really nice straight grain for the thin stuff especially.
15 September 2018 at 3:53 pm #551545One important point is whether these are fixed shutters or operable shutters. It they’re fixed and attached to the wall at four or six points, the frame is under no particular stress other than what the atmosphere puts on them. If they’re operable and hinged on one side, you have another issue. For operable shutters, something has to act to resist sagging and that’s why you frequently find diagonal bracing incorporated in the design. For an unbraced design, the panels (or slats) have to provide that resistance and they will as long as they can act as a continuous membrane. I would definitely use a well glued and sealed T&G joint for the slats and make them fit as tightly as possible in the grooves.
Another issue is sealing. The joint lines between the panels and the rails and styles have to be carefully caulked to prevent water getting down in the grooves. SYP is not particularly rot resistant like cedar or PT pine is so caulking those areas properly is pretty important. @mxbroome1 is absolutely right. I would use lots of glue and draw bore tenons at the MT joints. That might be belt and suspenders but for sure, those joints won’t fail.
20 September 2018 at 11:58 am #551997thanks for the input. These will be fixed shutters. I’ve simplified my design drastically since this guy just wants “down and dirty” shutters. The information is very good – many thanks.
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