Viewing 6 posts - 16 through 21 (of 21 total)
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  • #552955
    Anthony Greitzer

    Thicknessed the tail board to 1/2″. This probably helped with flatness. More importantly, I improved my layout procedure. Looked some things up online and realized I was making layout mistakes as u suspected. I used 2 marking gauges which helped me layout more accurately on both the tail and pin board. I set one marking gauge to the thickness of the tail board and the other to the depth of the pins. Also took your suggestion about making the pins smaller. They are 3/8.



    Looks great! Once you get glue and finish on, it will be perfect. (Actually, it’s darn near perfect now!)

    I see a gauge line in the end grain of the pin board (drawer front). So, that would be equal to the width of the rebate and the length of the tails. You said the other gauge was set equal to the thickness of the tail board, but really it ought to be equal to the thickness of the tails, which is a little less than the thickness of the tail board, because of the rebate, no? This one determines the depth of the sockets and, if you use the full thickness of the tailboard, the sockets will be too deep and the drawer will be too narrow once you plain the sockets flush.

    • This reply was modified 1 year, 3 months ago by Ed.
    Keith Walton

    That must have felt pretty good when they fit together nicely this time 🙂


    That looks way better i think you figured it out. Good job.


    Very nice!


    well done on your second attempt, much much better, you nailed it (without nails)

Viewing 6 posts - 16 through 21 (of 21 total)
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