Handplane Adventure
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10 January 2013 at 4:04 am #6362
I have accumulated about 20 or so old Stanley & a couple of Millers Falls planes ranging in size from a #2 to #6 including a bunch of specialty planes. I have sharpened & tuned all of them & and I can’t imagine any new plane, regardless of price, working any better. In all fairness to LN & Veritas, I haven’t used them…but truthfully, I don’t feel the need to. The old planes simply sing when I use them and the results are beautiful. The neat part is that all of them were considerably cheaper than any of the new ones.
10 January 2013 at 9:02 pm #6376Hi jon
How much did you pay for your stones I bought the DMT 200X75mm Coarse, Fine and Extra fine from Toollineuk.com for £55.416 including VAT In February last year They also came carriage free . I have not checked to see if they are still doing them at the same price, but at the time it was a good price
12 January 2013 at 4:22 am #6419Well, so far, I have purchased a vintage Stanley Bailey #4, #5, and a Stanley Sweetheart #45 Combination Plough Plane, with cutters. I have some work to do to get them in service, but I have spent less than I would on the one Lie-Nielsen I was wanting. I want a longer jointer plane but considering comments by Paul, I believe I am going to go with a #6 and stick with that for a while.
Paul’s comments about the longer planes generating heat and distorting the metal have me a bit concerned about having to re-flatten that plane from time to time. Anyone have any experience with a corrugated plane? Would you get any less heat generated with that?
15 January 2013 at 10:19 am #6545Hi all. I am new to this and I am very interested your feedback. Do you think of Quangsheng N4 plane? I’m thinking of buying one.
Here I leave a link in case you want to take a look:
http://www.workshopheaven.com/tools/Quangsheng_Planes.html
thanks
Hello Xavi, i have a Quangsheng no 7 and are very happy with it.
Besides some cleaning and honing the blade it was ready right out of the box and it produces some nice shavings,and they are not as expensive as the premium handplanes like Lie Nielsen or Veritas.
Anonymous15 January 2013 at 11:35 am #6547Hey Xavi,
I have the No4 Quangsheng plane, along with the No 6-7 and 62 I think they are every bit as good as the Lie Nielsen or Veritas high end planes.
Also the planes from workshop heaven are to a higher standard than other suppliers. Opinions very most will tell you to go for a old Stanley, but if you are after a new plane, you wont go far wrong with a Quangsheng from Matthew, customer service is second to none
15 January 2013 at 2:25 pm #6549Thank you very much for your comment. One more question: You know that the blade thickness is coming to this plane?
Anonymous15 January 2013 at 2:32 pm #6550[quote quote=6549]Thank you very much for your comment. One more question: You know that the blade thickness is coming to this plane? [/quote]
Quangsheng plane irons are 3mm thick T10 carbon steel hardened to RC63. This highly pure steel takes an extremely fine edge and holds it well.
15 January 2013 at 3:25 pm #6551The old planes, once properly tuned up and adjusted and fitted with a better blade and chop breaker work very well.
The Lie-Nielsen planes work that well or better with just a good sharpening. Either should work wonderfully for most folks in my opinion. The LN planes are beautiful too, and have a little more weight (which is usually an advantage). Their standard bench planes all have the “bedrock” style frog, which means that you can more easily adjust the throat opening. On the other hand, restoring an old, abused plane is a lot of fun and very gratifying. The pictures are of a Stanley #5 that I bought for cheap ($14.50) and restored. I fitted it with a blade/breaker from Ron Hock, but for what I use the #5 for (rough dimensioning) I probably could have used the original blade setup too. It was pretty rusty though.
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.15 January 2013 at 3:43 pm #6554@ Stephen Follis
I have 3 planes with corrugated bottoms (2) Stanley #5 and a Stanley #6. In all honestly I cannont recommend that you buy one this is just my opinion but I think you would be better served with regular flat bottom plane. The diffuculty for me arise when I am trying to edge joint a board I feel like the plane rocks a little bit with you slide over onto another corrugation on the bottom of the plane. That and trying to raise a panel is diffucult. I have found that I don’t mind them for general stock prep on wide boards less problems with rocking. However the regular flat sole would be more versatile to my mind since it would do both equally well. Oh one more thing regarding the “less” friction with a corrugated bottom I think that is total hogwash I can’t tell a bit of difference. That is just my two cents take it for what is worth. Hope this helps.
16 January 2013 at 12:47 am #6567Thanks Brett
I was suspect of the corrugated sole, especially considering the way Paul uses his when rounding off or breaking the edge of a board. The couple of planes I have found so far are all smooth. One more and then I am done shopping for a while. I am still trying to secure a nice Stanley Bailey 5 1/2. Ebay is trying hard to make a tool collector out of me, I am struggling to stay strong and keep focused!!
16 January 2013 at 12:52 am #6569Hey Guys, take a look at this article, I found it very interesting
http://www.finefurnituremaker.com/plane_common_sense.htm
Anonymous16 January 2013 at 2:36 am #6572[quote quote=6569]Hey Guys, take a look at this article, I found it very interesting http://www.finefurnituremaker.com/plane_common_sense.htm [/quote]
Quiet an old review that one by David Savage. The The Quangsheng No 6 has been redesigned since that article………So what’s new?
First of all the position of the handle, on the newer version (at the front) the handle is tucked up much closer to the frog. Changing this is no small undertaking as it means making a whole new set of patterns that the plane bodies are cast from. The new position makes it easier to reach the depth adjuster on the back of the frog without altering your grip.
Personally I subscribe to the ‘have the plane set correctly then approach the workpiece’ school of thought so it has never really bothered me, but I know there are those who prefer to make depth of cut adjustments ‘on the fly’.
The handle itself is now a little bit taller giving more room for the fingers, a little bit chunkier and with a more pronounced forward lean.
I would hate anyone been put off buying one after reading an old review
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