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    Ben Fisher

    OK I’ve been going at this three or more days and watching the flattening / sharpening / set up videos from online and Working Wood over and over, but I’m still having issues getting it right after 3 days and 12 or so hours of work.

    I’m totally new to woodworking still and this is my first tool I’m trying to set up so I can use it in the making of a workbench.

    It was bought on eBay.

    I got the rust down with some white vinegar, wire brushes and so on.

    The first couple days I did some flattening and sharpening work, but most of my time was trying to make the sole flat.

    It was very much high on the heel and toe. I’m not sure how much that matters so I kept at it.

    Eventually today I did some 40P and 80P grit because the other stuff wasn’t doing it. It’s better now.

    I flattened and polished the cap iron as suggested here and elsewhere.

    I sharpened the blade as I think I am supposed to from the videos with diamond plates, but not sure.

    I really don’t know what to look for on the edge of the blade.

    I am not sure what “burr” is or what I should be looking for.

    I never got any small strands of steel coming off of either side of the blade edge.

    I just did what I saw in the videos…

    It seems to be 30 degrees per protractor though. Using EZE LAP plates.

    I messed with the frog but have no idea where that should be set. There’s not much info out there about it.

    I got the lever cap screw set right I think, although the depth adjustment wheel is hard to turn still unless I loosen the screw too much, which is pointless.

    I did try some WD-40 on the screw and screw hole.

    It made the “slack” when you go the other direction with the wheel more but didn’t help any actual adjustments be less hard to make with the wheel.

    The iron – well, I think it’s sharp, but it may not be set up right.

    Maybe not sharp enough.

    I’m not sure if the iron is flat on the bottom but I think so. I’m not sure on the flatness of the frog either. I think it is. If you look at the side of it when assembled it’s not perfect with no gaps, but with the depth adjustment bit that sticks out I don’t think you can sand it flat.

    I was able to get some shavings from scrap 2×4 but never evenly on both sides regardless of what I did with the depth and lateral adjustments.

    And at least half the time, it just glides along even if the blade is well protruding.

    And I had to really push on the heel to get them with a shallower setting, but maybe I’m just thinking it should be easier.

    Maybe my throat opening and frog position is wrong. The throat did clog a couple times with near dust. Or maybe the blade bevel is wrong, but it seems right to me.

    Paul’s YouTube video here on ‘bench heights and planing technique’ suggests not much force should be needed.

    Or maybe he just makes it look a lot easier than it is.

    I did try going both ways on the scrap for grain direction.

    I have no idea how to read the grain really, but neither seemed much better than the other.

    I went to some project wood and it did absolutely nothing but glide no matter the setting I used and if the blade was set shallow or not.

    Blade does seem out of square a little but no lateral adjustment helped.

    Here are some pictures. The only thing I didn’t get was a side view fully assembled where you can see what the frog/iron gap looks like. Let me know if you want to see it.

    Fully Assembled


    Cap Iron to Iron Setup

    (How far the cap iron is away from the edge of the blade of the iron.)


    Frog Configuration



    Cap Iron to Iron Connection



    Iron Bevel Edge


    Iron 30 Degrees


    Iron Out of Square


    Throat Opening – Full Back


    Throat Opening – Forward


    Assembled Side View

    (Cap/Iron/Frog looks flat to me.)


    - Ben

    Ben Fisher

    OK, fixed the image links.

    - Ben


    Hi mate

    We’ve all been there. It took me quite a while to set up my plane too.

    First off, as you’ve been doing, you have to flatten the sole and round the edges slightly as Paul shows in his video.

    Next, sharpening the iron. If you’re new to it, I suggest you buy a honing guide to use. They’re like £5 or £6 on eBay. I have one and I still use it when I have to take off a lot of material on say a chisel or something. They’re very good. Usually now I don’t use it though as I have sort of developed a feel for the angle. The angle doesn’t have to be perfect by any means. Remember to flatten the back of the blade too.

    Burr is basically when you’re grinding away metal and then the waste metal sort of folds over to the other side of the edge. So you know you have a sharp iron when you’re grinding away and then when you pull your fingers along the flat side of the blade, right at the end you feel a raised bit all the way across. This is the metal you have ground off from the bevel. When you feel this, you take a few swipes on the flat side with some of the very fine abrasive. This will get rid of it and give you a sharp edge.

    The cap iron should be quite close to the cutting edge. 2mm is really the most gap you should have, I aim for around 1 or even slightly under. This distance varies on your intended use. At this point just set it to around 1-1.5mm.

    When you’ve done that, hold the iron-cap iron assembly to the light and look from the side of the cap iron. You should see no light coming through the join between the iron and the cap iron. If there is light, grind the end of the cap iron to make it flat. This is important to have no light coming through.

    Once you have all of that established, test the plane. If it still doesn’t work well, most likely there is an issue with the frog location. If this is the case, you will to take shavings and see everything getting jammed in the mouth. If this is the case, move the frog back half a turn of the screwdriver each time and test again. Try to aim for the setting which is the most forward but still gets you good shavings.

    Hope this helps.