I’d wait to do any flattening until you were sure you needed to. My first restoration (also my granddad’s plane) resulted in removing way too much of the sole due to my own ignorance. Most planes need far less ‘work’ than people think. Planes do need to be flat around the mouth particularly, but not necessarily across the entire sole of the plane. Best to sharpen the iron and try it first. If it does need flattening, do it with the blade in and the cap properly tensioned (obviously retract the blade). I did my first flattening with just the body of the plane–and after I put it together–guess what? Not flat anymore. Fortunately, it works well as is–I won’t reflatten because there won’t be any sole left if I do! ‘Flat enough is good enough’ is a good philosophy here. The half-dozen planes I’ve done since then have required very little, if any flattening. Cleaning off the rust and sharpening the blade has been all that was needed to get good users.

BTW, if you’re going to try electrolysis, a plane like the #4 is a good first tool, as the parts will all submerse easily in a 5 gallon bucket. It won’t hurt any japanning or paint that is still there, which is a nice plus. And if you don’t like the results, you didn’t hurt anything, and you can still try something else.

d

Hi Paul,

My recommendation from the planes that we restore at the workshop are that you will get most of the rust off with the flattening process, with abrasives and a soft wire brush. Most of the rust seems to be on the bottom and sides and on the blade, which all need attention anyway.

I would say that flattening the plane to some degree is important. I agree that it doesn’t have to be perfect, but it is a reference face whenever you plane your wood. It’s key to start by making sure everything is under correct tension. Here’s is a post Paul wrote for the flattening procedure with video:

http://paulsellers.com/2012/02/plane-soles-should-be-mostly-flat/

You can do the same on the sides, although getting them completely flat is not really necessary. It’s mostly to clean them up. Then you will want to take the frog apart, make sure it’s all clean and oiled, and flatten the area which the blade sits on, and a bit on the bottom of it where it comes in contact with the plane.

Then I would check the blade is roughly flat, and flatten the edge of the blade that the cap iron will sit on. I would probably make sure at least the first cm is flat. I would also flatten the cap iron where it contacts the blade to make sure there is no gap at the front edge when put together. For the freshly abraded surfaces, you could put some wax on (we use furniture wax) to help protect from rusting. We also use 3-in-1 oil whether by direct application and then wiping of the excess, or use the rag in a can on the working parts.

Here is Paul’s post on sharpening to finish off:
http://paulsellers.com/2012/02/sharpening-4-and-4-12-bench-planes/

Then it’s just a matter of setting it and off you go!

I usually start off with taking a single edge razor bladed to try and scrape off as much “dry rust” that you can.

I strip the plane and soak all the metal parts in Vinegar ( usually overnight ) then rinse and scrub off. I use a hair dryer to dry all the parts then proceed to 15, 220, 400, and maybe 600 grit wet / dry sandpaper. If there is still rust I repeat and usually that will be it.

I use an old rag with 3 – 1 oil and rub all over the plane, screw threads etc. Wipe off excess and then a couple coats of Johnston’s paste wax. I like to either just strip and wax the wood parts or sometimes I will use Tru – Oil that is used on Gun Stocks. I have restored a bunch of planes, chisels, hammers and saw’s with great results.

Steve

Paul that is a fantasic job you’ve done there ,i’m sure you’ll get a life times work out of that tool and then be able to pass it on, i’ve got a couple waiting to be done along with a couple of wooden planes. but i already have three done on my bench ,i didnt go as far as you did but they work fine and i get some nice work done with them enjoy using yours .

Holy Mackerel!! What a difference. That plane looks like new. The front knob looks spectacular. The steel of sole and sides is like new. I love the side-by-side pictures of pre- and post-restoration.

A job very well done, my friend. Now we want to hear about how well the shavings come out.