I just needed to bore a hole… my drill fix…
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I was glad to find this thread, as I have been using a cordless power drill and also wanted to start using hand drills. I bought a brace some time ago, and more recently, have just picked up a Miller Falls 5A. It’s in pretty good shape and I gave it an initial clean-up today. I have been looking over your tutorial and I’ll take the chuck apart, etc soon.
I have a question that may seem basic, but I’m new to using these hand drills. When putting a bit in the chuck, I noticed there is no “lock” to keep the drive from turning while you tighten it. Are you just supposed to brace the handle while you tighten the chuck (works but seems awkward), or is there a more proper way to do this?
Thanks for the help, and tutorial.
Salko:
With joiners knife I meant the stanley knife that paul uses:
The orange cracked lacquer didn’t come off as easily as the paint. it became gooey so I used the knife perpendicular to the surface so it was like a scraping movement. it proved better than using the wire brush.
Jay,
Don’t be afraid to dissassemble the drill. Even though you think it is in good condition outside, it is in terrible condition inside the chuck and the frame assembly. This is my second drill I restore, I am not an expert, but I am confident to tell you to give it a try.
The secret for the drill to sing, is to polish all the moving parts… you need to polish the chuck and all the sides where the jaws slide, so the action is always smooth when you open and close the chuck. Right now I bet that your jaws stick when you open and close your chuck, that is because even though you probably drown the chuck in WD-40, it is still rough and again, you need to polish all surfaces for it to slide perfectly. Follow this thread and you will see how easy it is.
Unfortunately, I am in a business trip so I had to leave this restoration midway. In this case, I took the parts out of the deruster and wire brushed all the carbon residue. I left all the parts in a bag with lots of WD-40 to prevent flash rusting until I come back on Thursday.
On Thursday, I begin polishing, painting and finishing. It is amazing how things change after painting and polishing.
My Millers Fall No. 1 will be ready to assemble on Thursday so you will have a sneak peak on how this babies end up.
From El Salvador, currently living in Guatemala
Jay,
By the way, I had the same doubt as you on a more elegant and simple way to open and close the chuck.
I think there is not… You have to grab the drive crank handle whilst opening the chuck, it seems there is not another way.
From El Salvador, currently living in Guatemala
Hey bloqbeta… I actually just finished taking the chuck apart. My biggest screwdriver wouldn’t span the gap in the bottom of the chuck so I just used the side of a thick paint scraper. As you said, it turned off with little effort.
I expected the inside of the chuck to look like the ones in your pictures, but to my surprise it was nearly pristine inside. The drill shows signs of use, so I really did not expect that. I gave it a quick cleaning, and later I may try to polish it more, but I think it is good to go.
I drilled a few holes with it and was surprised, again, at how fast these little drills are.
As for tightening the chuck, I think you are right… I practiced taking a few bits in and out and once I found a comfortable way to hold the drill, handle and chuck it wasn’t so bad. I think I am really going to enjoy using this drill more than I thought I would.
Just hold on to the wheel and tighten it that way but don’t over tighten as it may prove difficult to get it undone.
https://journeymansjournel.wordpress.com
The Lost Scrolls of HANDWORK
(Hand tool only woodworking magazine)
Bloqbeta, looking at the inside of my chuck, it’s a bit different than the pictures of yours. It has normal springs instead of the hook springs and it has a metal disc under the jaws instead of the conical piece in yours. I’m trying to find out of these are original parts and wondered if you, or someone here, might know about it. I have been looking around at various websites and can’t really find anything about the inside of the chucks on various MF models.
Hey Jay,
I have been out of the scene with my day job, and finishing my MF No.1 Here are the pictures of the finished drill:
BEFORE
AFTER
I like how it came out. Some lessons learned for the 5A rebuild: finish painting last. I polished a part of the wheel drive and managed to scratch the new paint. I will not repair since all of my tools are user tools.
Jay, on your question regarding the spring chuck. Check this article out, I think that your description of your chuck with helical springs is similiar:
http://www.wkfinetools.com/tRestore/boringTools/tuningEggbeater/restEB3.asp
MF used different chucks in their manufacturing lifetime, it would be cool to have one of each, just because…. hahahaha
I hope tomorrow I can continue writing on the 5A rebuild. I am painting and finishing the wood now….
From El Salvador, currently living in Guatemala
Very nice! It looks great. I’ll bet it spins super smooth and will be a joy to use.
http://hillbillydaiku.com
You’ve done a fantastic job I would of preferred in the wheel to be red none the less great job!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
https://journeymansjournel.wordpress.com
The Lost Scrolls of HANDWORK
(Hand tool only woodworking magazine)Fantastic restoration, well done! Liked it a lot.
Thanks for posting.
Your drill looks great, bloqbeta. I’m attaching a picture of mine, and a close-up of the chuck. I just gave mine a thorough cleaning, re-painted some spots on the black enamel and coated it with Boeshield. Haven’t done anything with the wood yet… it’s in pretty good shape but I would like to get the side knobs as nice as the main handle. Not sure what finish to use to match those up.
You can see the disc from inside my chuck. This is what sits behind the jaws and springs… it works fine, but I haven’t seen any pictures with this part inside the chuck. Not really sure how varied these parts were within one model of drill.
Also… wanted to ask what type of modern production bits are best to use with these drills? I was thinking brad points with a hex shaft to make them easy to swap out?
The Millers Falls 5A Restoration
Polishing, Painting, sanding and finishing.
After a bath and scrub from the Evaporust, I degrease all the parts with Simple Green, which i cannot stop recommending as an ultrasafe cleaner and degreaser.
The metal parts are masked and painted with Black Engine Enamel. I know, all the purists will jump that I did not paint the wheel red, but unfortunately I couldn’t find red enamel here in Guatemala. That and that I really dont care what color I give it since it is a user drill. When I want to sell it or put it on a shelf, then I can repaint it, it is really not that difficult.
I repainted it differently than the MF No.1. On this baby, I put a coat on, leave it to dry for one full day, then I baked it in the oven at 200°F for 40 minutes. I did that for three coats.
The MF no.1 I put the three coats and then baked it. I fear it “toasted” the exterior and left the innner paint “fresh and gooey”. and it will probably be more difficult for it to fully dry.The wooden handle changed like the sun is to the moon. That really nasty orange lacquer revealed the most beautiful wood inside. I sanded it to 320, one coat of boiled linseed oil, another 15 minutes apart, and then I clean the excess. I waited for it to dry, a day or two, and then I applied 4 or 5 coats of wiping varnish. I mixed my own, 25% Mineral Spirits, 75% Minwax Polyurethane, you know when it is done when there is a shiny layer that will protect the wood from your benchwork.
Polishing all the parts is easy but it is a long and tedious process…. Depending on the condition of the part I usually start at 180 grit and work to 1500 grit even use green polishing compound if necessary. Even start at 120 grit if it is necessary.I try to put most of the parts in my electric drill, like all the screws and spindles. I spin them in the drill and offer the abrasives, they go real fast.
For the parts I cannnot spin in the drill, I cut thin strips of abrasive paper and go back and forth polishing the parts.
I bath all the parts in wd40 for safety measure against rust whilst the other parts get painted and ready for assembly.
From El Salvador, currently living in Guatemala
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