Leather Strop – Paste Not Sticking (update)
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Hi,
There was a discussion on one of the forums some months ago about grinding compound not sticking to the leather strop.
I was having the same problem. I’ve made some progress, and as I can’t find the original thread, I’m posting here in case it helps.
My original strop was stuck smooth side down, rough side up, as is my new one.
The main difference is that my original strop was 5mm thick, while the new one is 1.5mm thick. There is no noticeable difference in the quality or texture of both leathers, both are stuck to the same wood (plywood), both have been used with the same grinding compound.
The thinner strop is working perfectly, everything sticks to it, and it hones very well.
I think the thick leather is flexing too much when I strop, causing the compressed compound to crack and come off?
Anyway, I thought I would post this here in case it helps anyone else in a similar position.
Regards
Darren.
A small amount of oil worked into the leather keeps everything supple on mine.
I tried the oil with little long term effect in my case.
I was fortunate enough to be on one of Paul’s courses in Oxfordshire recently, and asked him if oil was a good option in this case. He thought that the addition of oil, while helping the compound stick, could reduce the effectiveness of the grinding compound as it would reduce friction?
Darren.
Hi Darren-
Happy new year to you. I don’t know the answer to your questions, but I did recently see a long discussion re strops and compound s on the old tool list, maybe it will help<ahref=”https://swingleydev.com/ot/get/144605/thread/#144605″>
I have a strop, rough side up, that is working well for me. Vegetable tanned and approximately 5mm thick. The leather is cemented to a 3/4″ piece of white oak. I have been using a green compound sold here in the US as a buffing wheel compound. I hope you resolve your issue soon. Happy New Uear !
Brent
From the sounds of it, probably a combination of leather too soft – it should not give way under pressure – and too much compound. You only need a small amount adhering to the surface. Soft leather will dub over or round the edge.
A good working alternative to leather is a piece of MDF board.
Again, a little oil on the surface to keep things moist and then apply paste as you would on leather.
It’s possible to have a couple of grades of paste side by side on MDF, followed by Autosol for a good polish.
Because the material does not flex and is flat, it is an excellent way to maintain the polish on the backs of blades; turn them over and rub flat.In some respects, better than leather for stropping…… after all, MDF is no use for anything else!
Thanks, the leather on my 5mm strop was soft, and gave quite a lot when I pushed the iron against it.
I think then, that density of leather must be the key.
Thanks for all the posts.
Darren.
The type of leather is the problem, I live in Texas and can get all kinds of leather, I also do a little leather work from time to time and I use a piece of scrap tooling leather. It’s 3/16 thick, with rough one side, smooth the other. This leather is NOT coated with a softener. That is probably what is going on with your leather. Some softening compounds also keep stuff from sticking to the leather. You may also be using a Chrome tanned product. great for tooling but not so much for the stropping compound.
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