Tagged: 

Lidl Chisels

  • Creator
    Topic
  • #552870
    Matt SimsMatt Sims
    Participant

    Folks,

    For those of you in the UK…according to the weekly magazine I picked up today the £7.99 set of 4 chisels should be in sale in Lidl from this Thursday, 1st Nov 2018.

    Regards,

    Simsy

Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 19 total)
  • Author
    Replies
  • #552902
    Tom DaviesTom Davies
    Participant

    @thomashenry

    Thanks for the info!

    #552924
    Dionysios PDionysios P
    Participant

    @dionysios

    Many thanks for the info.

    I have just checked their website and it says that the chisels will be available on Sunday 4th November.

    #552980
    Matt SimsMatt Sims
    Participant

    @simsy

    And I’ve just checked the magazine again… you’re quite right!
    Offer is from this Sunday, 4th Nov.
    Regards,
    Simsy

    #552981
    Caleb RingwaldCaleb Ringwald
    Participant

    @calebringwald

    I just saw them already in the bins here in Belgium. So if anyone else is in Belgium, now’s the time.
    As an aside, does anybody know if they’re actually manufactured by the same company that makes the Aldi sets?

    #552987
    Matt SimsMatt Sims
    Participant

    @simsy

    I’ve bought 3 sets from Lidl in the past… I don’t know if it’s the same folk as make the Aldi ones, but they do have a German make on… (Can’t remember what at the moment, and they are not to hand).
    I certainly find them very very good!

    Regards,

    Simsy

    #553300
    Nikolaj33Nikolaj33
    Participant

    @nikolaj33

    I wonder if Paul has tried new series of Lidl chisels. I started woodworking about two months ago. I was really excited to get the pack of Lidl chisels when they came out because of Paul’s appraisal. But I must say I am a little bit disappointed. Let aside the fact that some of them don’t sit right in the handle, or that side bevels are not the same size etc… But what was particularly bad is that I can’t seem to flatten the underside of the chisel. There always seem to be a patch around the blade where the sand paper doesn’t reach. I have spent three hours trying to initialise two chisels. And what did I get, well… with the bevel down it cuts beautifully, but with the bevel up, not nearly as good, which makes me believe it is because the underside isn’t flat enough. But it seems impossible to get polished until the edge of the blade. I also did a test on the light with a straight edge and it seems like there is a general hollow through the length of the blade, but it seems as if there is a tiny belly just at the edge.
    Like I said, I am new and I don’t have experience, so I wonder, am I doing something wrong, or is it the new series of Lidl chisels. Yes they are innexpensive, but if it is going to take me 8 hours to get them ready, it would actually make more sense to get Ashley Isles instead and spare myself the frustration.

    #553301
    Keith WaltonKeith Walton
    Participant

    @keithmw

    None of that stuff truly matters except getting the back flat. I notice lots of little issues with the latest batch at aldi. They’re not perfect, but they’re 7$. Get that tip flattened on some coarse sand paper. You’ll be fine. The problem is Paul gave them so much praise I think I expected too much and at first glance was disappointed. When working you really do not notice the handle and shank don’t line up. The side bevels don’t affect much at all. You’ll be happy with them when you get them working. Mine are cutting very nicely now

    #553302
    Nikolaj33Nikolaj33
    Participant

    @nikolaj33

    Yes, I agree, but what I am saying is, I cannot flatten the back on one for two hours on 80 sand paper, with frequent paper changes. What I am thinking is, that if I was working for those two hours, I would have made £25 for an Ashley Isles chisel. And I doubt that it is me, because I did manage to flatten the back on Irwin Marples chisel.

    #553303
    EdEd
    Participant

    @ed

    @nikolaj33 what do you have the paper on and how have you attached the paper when you are working the back?

    #553304
    Nikolaj33Nikolaj33
    Participant

    @nikolaj33

    Ed,

    I am sharpening on a thick glass table, with a couple of clamps

    #553305
    Selva NairSelva Nair
    Participant

    @selva

    Glass table top means tempered glass, I suppose. Although almost all glass sheets manufactured today are float glass and should serve as a flat surface for sharpening, the process of tempering could make them imperfect — bowing, and thickness fluctuations introduced by the heat treatment is not uncommon.
    On top of that, large glass table tops could be bowed even otherwise.

    The surface you are using may still be flat enough, but do check. I prefer to use a piece of thick (1/4 inch should do) ordinary float glass (which is the most common kind of glass made) kept on a solid and reasonably flat table top.

    • This reply was modified 5 months ago by Selva NairSelva Nair.
    #553306
    Keith WaltonKeith Walton
    Participant

    @keithmw

    Any pics of the chisel back and maybe against a straight edge? Maybe some one will see something, another set of eyes never hurts

    #553309
    EdEd
    Participant

    @ed

    @nikolaj33 the glass is likely fine, but if you are not gluing the paper down, I would not be surprised if the paper is curling as you work the back and causing the back to round into a belly. I always use spray adhesive when working the back. Some will hold the paper down by wetting it and placing the wet paper on the glass, but I find that isn’t adequate for me.

    #553437
    Dionysios PDionysios P
    Participant

    @dionysios

    I have purchased in the past a set of Lidl chisels for my workshop (the set with the hornbeam handles) and they proved to be great tools after some work on the handle and of course proper sharpening.

    On 4th of November I purchased another set (with the intention to transform them a bit, sharpen them and give them as a gift to a friend in a wooden box). Today I have found some workshop time and I have opened the chisel package.

    What a great disappointment!

    Whatever made in the past those chisels a good value for money, it’s not present any more.

    There is always the possibility that I’ve got a bad sample, but with so many faults I’ve found I doubt it.

    Starting with the handles (made of beech), they look and feel horrible. The shaping is very crude (you may see the marks in the photos) and the varnish? is not uniformly applied leaving some bare spots and flaking in places.

    Regarding the blades, the side bevels are not the same size on any of the chisels and they have scratches and other marks. On the two smaller chisels there was an attempt to polish out the machine marks without great success. On the two larger chisels the blade is not even centred at the handle (especially on the 24mm one).

    The only common thing with my current set of chisels is the makers me, and even this is badly printed on the new ones (you may see the old and new chisels side by side in the photos).

    Of course I will return them for a refund, but it’s sad to see such sacrifice of the quality in favour of profit to the point that the product is utterly useless.

    Attachments:
    #553494
    Nikolaj33Nikolaj33
    Participant

    @nikolaj33

    [quote quote=553309]@nikolaj33 the glass is likely fine, but if you are not gluing the paper down, I would not be surprised if the paper is curling as you work the back and causing the back to round into a belly. I always use spray adhesive when working the back. Some will hold the paper down by wetting it and placing the wet paper on the glass, but I find that isn’t adequate for me.[/quote]

    I saw Paul using just clamped sand paper on the granite block in one video, where he is flattening a sole of a plane, so I thought it could work for this too. I was looking for a short cut, because the sand paper I have looses the grit so quickly that I cannot achieve anything with one sheet. So gluing down makes things more time consuming, you gotta scrape off the glue etc.

    Another problem I was having was when flattening a sole of a plane I just bought. I had problem again to make it flat. It is a 30’s plane, the steel seems very hard. What I noticed after abrading it’s back for a bit that I didn’t get a simple abraded and not abraded zones, but rather a few different zones with different layers of abrading. I have spent again a couple of hours trying to make it flat, but it didn’t work. Do you think that maybe the problem actually might be that the surface isn’t flat after all?

    Maybe it is time to invest in those diamond stones, or at least a coarse one to begin with.

Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 19 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.