I wonder how much of a difference this would make. I’m seriously considering installing a mirror on the wall behind my bench so I don’t have to keep bending my head over the work piece to see how close to the gauge line I am on the back side. Now I understand why a lot of older pieces show up with the gauge lines over cut on the inside of assemblies. In the long run I just need to get the feel of when my saw is level. Once I have that down, cutting to the gauge line on the face side will mean that I have reached the gauge line on the back side. Zen and the art of cutting dovetails…be at one with the saw.
I have the tapered dovetail saw (thin plate version). I first saw it at the European Woodworking Show last year when it just came out and tried it alongside the non-tapered version. It certainly cuts quicker, or at least with less effort, and feels more balanced.
For any other saw geeks, there’s a really good post about taper (or cant) here: http://thesawblog.com/?p=1816
Matt actually built a carcase saw with the same taper as traditional (early 19th century) saws and was amazed by the difference it made. He talks about it here: http://thesawblog.com/?p=1982