Made a marking gauge

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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 18 total)
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  • #130836
    Joe Kaiser
    Participant

    Thanks to Frank Joseph for guidance, I made my first marking gauge. It was much easier than I thought – took maybe an hour. It could have been faster, but I took my time.

    I used some scrap wood I had laying around. Sapele for the head, cherry for the beam, and oak for the wedge. It works just like any other one I have. There is something nice about making your own tools.

    I will be making another, I had some blow out in the mortice hole, and want to fix it. I’m going to pick up some brass blanks and inlay them in as well.

    Seattle, WA

    #130838
    Joe Kaiser
    Participant

    I will probably end up shaping the head. Right now I’m just nervous I will mess it up, and have to start over.

    Seattle, WA

    #130842
    Frank Joseph
    Participant

    Well I am very glad the rough samples I sent did there job, Yours looks very good.
    Good luck
    Frankj

    In South Jersey the good part of New Jersey, USA.

    #130906
    trooper82
    Participant

    Nice!…question…is the lock slide held in place? meaning is there a knob on the other side we can’t see?

    #130923
    Joe Kaiser
    Participant

    No, there is just a small wedge on the side facing the tool well. If you enlarge the picture, you can see part of it poking out.

    Seattle, WA

    #130996
    ballinger
    Participant

    Nice one, I need a marking gauge can you share the info on how to make it?

    #130997
    Joe Kaiser
    Participant

    I will put something together with pictures

    Seattle, WA

    #130998
    ballinger
    Participant

    Thanks a million

    #130999
    Joe Kaiser
    Participant

    I am no expert, and all credit has to go to Frank Joseph to showed me, and gave me the confidence.

    I didn’t actually use any measurements to make it. I just used whatever scraps I had and the chisels to match. The beam is 10″ long – quite longer than my others, but I like it that way. I can always cut it down later.

    The head is 3×2 with a mortise to match the beam. Once the beam was a tight fit. I gradually took a thin shaving off every side (1 shaving at a time) until it would slip in and out without binding or sticking. Be careful here, you don’t want too much play in it.

    When that was done, I just took a 3/8″ chisel and gradually paired down the place for the wedge.

    Cut the wedge, gave it all a coat of tung oil, and called it a day. I will be shaping the head eventually. When the wedge is in the “loose” position, you want it to be flush with the mortise hole. Meaning the beam can slide freely.

    The pin is just a nail. I cut off the head, filing a super sharp point, drilled a hold in the beam, and tapped it through.

    Seattle, WA

    • This reply was modified 6 years, 10 months ago by Joe Kaiser.
    #131003
    ballinger
    Participant

    That’s fantastic so you have a double ended wedge that you can press from either direction one way tight the other loose? Definatly going to make one of those!

    #131004
    Joe Kaiser
    Participant

    Yeah, Frank sent me a few of those and it works great. I like being able to push from the bottom and then when I need to loose it, I turn it upside down on the edge of the bench and give it a quick tap.

    Seattle, WA

    #131006
    ballinger
    Participant

    Very good so you push the wedge away from the pin to tighten on yours?

    #131008
    Joe Kaiser
    Participant

    no, you push towards the pin

    Seattle, WA

    #131009
    Orestes
    Participant

    Very good job!!!

    By the way, the planes in the background look really good as well.
    What are the numbers ?

    #131011
    Frank Joseph
    Participant

    Hi Joe they came out very good. Glad you like this type. I find them very easy to adjust with one hand. The key to adjusting is to set it under size tighten the wedge a bit and the tap it on somthing till you are on mark.

    In South Jersey the good part of New Jersey, USA.

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