Mechanical pencils in the woodshop?
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- This topic has 6 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 4 years, 10 months ago by Flemming Aaberg.
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I’ve found cheap mechanical pencils to be much more functional and convenient than traditional wood ones. When the lead breaks, I can just push a button or twist a knob for more lead and keep working. The downside I’ve found is that the thickness of the tip where the lead comes out can get in the way of a proper mark, so I have to be careful of the pencil angle and how the tip interacts with my rule/straight edge.
Today, I’ve bought a 3-pack of Pentel Sharp mechanical pencils, which are used a lot for drafting work. They are .5, .7 and .9mm, so I will be able to try them all out. The lead is supposed to be strong, and will hopefully stand up better to the rough work of marking wood. The tip is a thin metal tube that I think will not introduce nearly the same amount of marking error as the cheaper alternatives I’ve been using.
I liken this to the difference between my Stanley 10-049 marking knife (similar to the one Paul uses) compared to a fatter utility knife.
If you use a mechanical pencil in your shop, what type(s) do you use? What are their strengths/weaknesses?
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You must be logged in to view attached files.I tried them, but I returned to wooden Staedtler pencils, since the traces were too much thick for me. I use a crank-type pencil sharpener and I can obtain a super-sharp point in seconds. By the way, I use pencils on the “hard rail”, 2H, 3H and even 4H, for accurate marking, and HB hardness por general work or dark woods, in wich harder pencils are difficult to see.
When I was an Engineering student I used the HB 0.5 mechanical pencils only for writing. For technical drawing I used 4H and Faber-Castell 6H pencils. I must say, however, that I’m rather chained-to-the-past, since in the CAD era I still do my perspective drawings with paper, parallex rule, drawing squares and chinese ink stylographs… though I do them only for me, not for professional activity.
7 June 2019 at 11:39 pm #578935I find the .5 mm too fragile, but maybe it’s my motor skills, which are on the hammy side. About the only thing I use them for are with Incra rules and the Incra protractor with the little .5mm slots in them.
Sometimes I use one of my Kohinoor drafting ink pens, which has a .5 mm shaft. It draws on some woods pencils don’t do well with. Or I use the Pigma Micron ink pens, but on some woods the tips get clogged and then the pen is useless.A more durable mechanical pencil is an actual drafting pencil which has a 2 mm lead. Alvin and steadier make them for about $10-15 each. The rolls Royce’s are Dietzgen at about $75 that are only worth it if you draft Lot or get paid to draft and have an expense accounts (or just are a pencil geek like me). The pencils require a rotary pointer, which allows rapid one handed sharpening so you always have a sharp point. Get a pointer that either is heavy or clamps to a table or bench. That allows you to sharpen one handed. You will sharpen more often. I have a couple Dietzgens but they don’t see the shop. They are up on by desk where I do drafting. For emergencies you can point them with one version of the Kum long point sharpener.
But for 90% of layout on the bench I use wooden pencils. The ones I use are Palomino Blackwing 602’s, and I’ve used them since my college days. They aren’t cheap, at about $22-25 a dozen, but the lead spreads silky smooth and doesn’t break as much. I use an electric desk sharpener in the shop. In the field I use the Kum. You will get possessive about these pencils. They are the Lie Nielsen of pencils. Make sure you have plenty of Dixon Ticonderoga’s for the wife and kids to chew on. Keep the Blackwings in the tool chest.and get a couple pocket clips so you always have one to hand. They get broken less often chipped on my apron than laying on the bench.
- This reply was modified 4 years, 10 months ago by Larry Geib.
- This reply was modified 4 years, 10 months ago by Larry Geib.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.8 June 2019 at 4:45 am #579025By coincidence I have also ordered today a Pentel P200 (Pentel Sharp in the US) and a Pentel Graphgear 1000, both 0.5mm.
I am using also:
1) A cheap Rotring 0.7mm. Positives: Very light, no rubber ”ergonomic” grip that will disintegrate and become sticky, cheap. Negatives: It lacks the long metal sleeve of a proper drafting pencil so you have to be a bit carefull when you are drawing lines using a rule. The 0.7mm line is quite thick.
2) Staedtler Mars Technico 2.00mm. Positives: Heavier than the Rotring but still on the light side (you can still use your ear as a pencil stand), excellent balance, it has its own integrated lead sharpener, you may extend the lead a lot if you have to reach a tight space, it will last a lifetime, relatively cheap (about £6.00). Negatives: Needs sharpening.
3) Pentel Graphgear 1000 0.3mm. Positives: Proper drafting pencil made to work against a rule, retractable sleve (so it won’t get damaged when you throw it in the toolbox), excellent built quality, very good grip and balance, silver colour so it pops out on a messy bench, very fine line that aids accuracy, not expensive if you order from Japan and wait a month for delivery. Negatives: Heavy (even if your ears are spring loaded they can’t hold it), very fine line (yes, it might be a negative when presbyopia comes), fine lead tends to break if you are not gentle enough (hence the order of the 0.5mm).
4) Taylors pencil with white lead (wooden). Positives: You can see your line no matter how dark is the wood, cheap, lines are easy to remove, lightweight. Negatives: Soft lead needs frequent sharpening.
The big advantage of mechanical pencils is the consistent thickness of line (does not apply on lead holders like the Staedtler Mars Technico) and therefore accuracy. My main concern is that the thin metal sleeve of a proper drafting pencil can be easily damaged in a workshop environment (otherwise I would have ordered only the Pentel P200)
8 June 2019 at 8:42 am #579060I should hav mentioned another good pencil is PAPERMATE’s Mirado Black Warrior 2hB pencil. It has a round profile and durable lead. It does not, however have wax in the lead formulation that gives the Blackwing 602 it’s silky feel on wood or paper.
The return is that instead of paying $25 or so a dozen, you can get them for as low as $1.68 a dozen. I used them in the interim years when the Blackwings weren’t being made to save my stash of Blackwings for good work.
And Cross pens have a companion .5 mm lead mechanical pencil that is quite elegant. My dad used to give these to customers in the 1950’s and 60’s. When we cleaned out the house, I found a half dozen, some gold plated. Very elegant, but probably not in my price bracket for a work pencil.
- This reply was modified 4 years, 10 months ago by Larry Geib.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.Another option for pointing the 2mm leads is a piece of abrasive paper either glued to a bit of scrap or just held flat. A few twirling swipes will do it.
There are inexpensive plastic pointers that you hold in your hand (see link), and they work, too, after a little practice, although it is easy to break the lead with them. I learned of them from an architect. A cheap $1 sharpener and this little ten-dollar pointer will sharpen the 2mm leads and are small enough to toss into the pocket of your backpack or the tray in your toolbox. The $1 pointer (see link) plus abrasive paper will work quite well. I’ve not touched the rotary pointer (see link) in a long time. You can also just use a chisel, and I’ve done that, too.
I prefer wooden pencils in the shop, but sometimes use a lead holder plus 2mm lead. The 0.5mm and 0.7mm mechanical pencil leads break too easily.
24 June 2019 at 11:19 am #583956Really depends on what you’re doing – but – long story short – I use what is most appropriate for the task.I use 0.5mm HB Staedler mechanical pencil and carry in my pocket at all times when doing general wood working – but have several around in case I forget. I also use 3B regular pencils for coarse marking when doing carpentry and ‘near enough’ work. And of course a knife for precision work. And just for context – I use a hatchet to chop an approximate mark when chain sawing fire wood – 1/2 inch either way is good enough.
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