most and least favorite tools upgrades

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    @ed, I had the same issues. Taking the clamping feet of and filing/smoothing the throats pluse a little wax is a night and day difference. It pretty much eliminate the binding.

    Tuscloosa, Alabama
    Lung T'an Hu Huesh Kung-fu Woodshop


    I have gotten h f clamps at numerous times and stores. The quality varies quite a bit. The older ones collars are tighter on the shaft and do not bind but there was a period where the collars were real loose , these created the bind no matter what one did to them. I dont live close but have three that i am returning under their warrenty and will sort through and see if i can get tighter collars.


    Thanks for the info. I’ve collected mine over several visits to H.F.and have no idea which was bought when, but they have been spread over the last several years. Even the newest must be a few years old. I’ll try Paul’s adjustments. If they don’t work, I’ll go to Plan B, which will be to mask off the bar and then build up a fillet of JB Kwik to keep the jaw from rocking. It shouldn’t take much force to keep the jaw from rocking. It’s been awhile since I looked at this, so maybe it’s a dumb idea. I like the clamps that work because they are lightweight and because they are inexpensive enough that I don’t mind hacking them to make jigs.


    Ed. It dont matter when you bought them. The warrenty is lifetime on them. If the collar is sloppy loose and they bind they were probably made a couple years ago. They were good , got sloppy , then got better again.
    Another thing i noticd the 5 ft ones seem to have enough flex in them to not tighten up with the threads that come with em.

    Brian A


    Update on Glue: I took some detergent dispensers, the kind you pull on the top to open (much like ketchup containers), and I put glue in them. After seeing it somewhere on the internet, I filled them with glue and turned them upside down, and kept them that way. When I dispense the glue I just pluck out the hardened reticle from the opening with a nail or exacto-knife or what have you, pull it open, and the glue just flows right out with no ‘waiting period’.

    Two Britney n’ Jackson Saws: They cut well right out of the box. One needed a minor fix to tighten the handle (due to the cheap yet functional rivets), the other did not require that. Now I’m thinking I didn’t need to buy the antique $150 Disston D8 (though I do like that one, it’s the Clydesdale of Rip saws, so also a win, if a bit pricey).

    Recent Losses:

    A small $12 loss was the “Harbor Freight traditional panel saw”. I read somewhere on the internet that they are usable. The one I got is warped. It is also thin steel. Apparently my recourse is to either pound it flat or make it into a scraper, once I learn more about metallurgy.

    4’x8′ OSB sheet – it was cheap, and fast to cut me. I won’t be going back to it.

    Jury is out:

    A big sheet of MDF. It is useful, but ugly, heavy, and sort of an undead version of wood. I continue to use pieces of it for this and that. It does the jobs intact wood is too good (or too light) to do, so I respect it, despite its inherent MDFness.

    Kreg jig: I’ve made some things with angled screws that were not too bad, but then I learned that dowels and glue are stronger, and mortices stronger yet. I still take it out once and while for old times sake, or when I need a pliable, quick, or removable joint.


    William Stanley

    I took a deep breath and ordered 3 eze-lap diamond stones (coarse, fine and superfine), after years of persevering with an old carborundum double sided oil stone. Using Paul’s convex bevel I was amazed at how easy it was to sharpen my plane blade. No more honing guides for me.

    Also, I ordered the Silverline spiral stitched buffing wheel and compound – fitted to my grinder (had to use a rubber washer to take up a small gap) and wow – it’s great for polishing up the plane parts when restoring planes _ I recently bought a job lot of 23 Stanley planes (1 x 5 1/2, 4 x No 5’s, 1 No 3 and 13 x No 4s) – something to keep me busy when I retire next year!!

    Least favourite – Triton saw table bought about 20 years ago – never really did it for me.

    • This reply was modified 3 years ago by William Stanley. Reason: poor English!

    In Paul’s videos I have tried to identify the Auriou rasps he uses. It appears to me that there are 2 main ones that I have identified. I have been looking at the Auriou rasps for 2 years and I was fortunate to receive an Auriou 7 inch Modeller’s Rasp 13 Grain as a gift.

    I cannot believe the difference in use from an Auriou over others that I own (Narex, big box store brands, EBay, etc). The price is nearly impossible to justify ($95 US) but this tool is just …….. well exquisite. Now for the 12″ Cabinet Maker’s Rasp, 10 Grain Right Hand at $130 US!

    Is it worth the cost – that is a personal call. All I know is that the tool has performed excellently.


    cliff, I am with you. there was an auriou rasp under my tree this year , a 10 inch #9 stitch right hand I am in awe at it. i first run it left handed because i could i guess, and was unimpressed than switched hands and , a world of difference , I rasped a inside curve with radiuses edges in pine , hit it with 120 , a worn piece of 220 and i could have painted it.nice rasp.?

Viewing 8 posts - 16 through 23 (of 23 total)
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