Mr Sellers will send me broke ;)
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[quote quote=650593]On a side note: does anyone have ideas on how to drill the stepped holes in the tote without a lot of specialty tools? My twist drill bit created some small divots from splinters as I drilled into the top of the tote. I also tried to carve the round hole with my knife, and that wasn’t very good.[/quote]
I don’t know if you consider a drill press( pillar drill) specially tool or not, but drilling a 4” stepped hole is a lot easier with one. I find I miss the mark too often by hand.
Drill the holes before you start shaping. The face will be cleaner.I drill the larger hole at high speed with a 7/16” Forstner bit 3/8 deep followed bY a long haft spur bit either 1/4” or 5/16”. A shorter spur followed by an electrician’s bit will do.
Don’t drill the Forstner hole too deep. You can always make it deeper on final fit
I drill before cutting the bottom angle and the grain is pretty much along the line it needs to be.
Then I cut the bottom angle and start cutting and filing. Again, a band saw speeds things up. The angles I use are 26° for a #3 or #4, and 27° for the larger bench planes.
Lee valley has a template and directions on their website if you don’t have a pattern already. I just used an old tote, which I found more aesthetic.older totes have longer orn. I’ll post a picture of the first page.
Gramercy (Tools for working wood ) has a great hand cut rasp specifically made for totes and saw handles that has a safe back and is curved. I find it makes the work go quicker. I don’t know what it costs now, but I think I paid $50 for it. Good tool and useful for other stuff.
Bill Bittner’s
Plane Shavings blog
Has three part postings called “make a tote” parts 1, 2, &3 I found really helpful. Re-reading the series, that must be where I found out about the rasp.Just go to the blog and plug “make a tote” in the search box.
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This reply was modified 3 years, 9 months ago by
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This reply was modified 3 years, 9 months ago by
Hi Paul
You could try The Vintage Tool Shop in Dorset England , they have a large stock of vintage woodworking tools , I suspect postage could be a problemRegards
DavidBefore this degenerates into personal bickering. please let me make a couple of points.
First, Larry Geib is absolutely correct in pointing out that you pay a hefty premium for the convenience of shopping for tools on the internet as opposed to seeking them out and buying them in face-to-face transactions (flea markets, car boots, estate sales etc.) just as you will pay more for a gallon of milk at a convenience store/corner shop than you would at Kroger or Tesco. Sometimes the convenience is worth the difference in price and maybe there is no reasonable alternative.
Also some regions,such as the northeastern and north central US and (probably) most of Great Britain are rich in used tools. Other areas, like most of the American West and maybe Australia are “old tool deserts”. Folks in these places have relatively few options.
Larry is absolutely right when he describes the use of Ebay’s auto bid “feature” as “stupid”. I don’t think that he meant to call those who have been conned into using it “stupid”. It is designed to drive prices (and Ebay’s commissions) as high as possible. People who actually win Ebay auctions for reasonable prices “snipe”. That is, they wait until the closing seconds of the auction to submit their bids. You can either do this manually (a major PITA IMHO) or use a service like esnipe which does it automatically for a small fee.
Dave
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This reply was modified 3 years, 9 months ago by
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