No.5 Stanley made in England trouble
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I flattened the sole of this plane, sharpened the edge like a razor and reassembled the Whole plane. I have trouble with the adjusting wheel: when the lever cap is in place ( not too tight) te wheel cannot move the Y piece that slides the blade up and down. Lever cap removed i can move the Y piece rotating the adjusting wheel… i lubricated those parts, nothing has changed. so, what could i do to maje this plane usable?
26 June 2014 at 1:09 am #58839Sometimes the lateral adjustment disc is not seated in it’s slot in the blade. Check to ensure that the iron and chip breaker assembly is seated on the frog’s bedding surfaces..
Cheers
26 June 2014 at 1:29 am #58841If Sid’s suggestion doesn’t bring results, you might loosen the lever cap screw about one eighth of a turn and see if that may have gotten moved just a bit during disassembly and subsequent re-assembly.
Dave
26 June 2014 at 3:11 am #58844[quote quote=58842]Also make sure you do not have the frog set so far back that the blade is hitting the body of the plane, or so far forward that the chip breaker is. I’m not going to say how I figured that one out…[/quote]
haha…yeah, and I won’t say I had to figure that out as well 🙂
Moving the frog alittle back helped a few. Doing this i saw that frog does not sit parallel on plane body: left part is Always more forward and does’t bear evenly against plane body itself. Probably i have to fix frog bedding. I believe it’s not a simple process..i own only some flat files and triangular files i use for saw sharpening. Both are too big for that accurate surface. Any ideas?
I use a cheap set of diamond miniature files to file the frog bed square and flat on a cheap faithful block plane turned it from a dog to a usable tool! Just like the “master” has said.
Paul’s done a video on setting up a plane, have you watched that some good tips there29 June 2014 at 2:46 pm #58939Sometimes when you tighten frog screws they tend to misalign try and hold parallel to mouth.
The top part of your y adjuster could be worn.
If this the case it will not move iron forward to take a shaving.
You can replace y adjuster with another you can buy new.I remember reading somewhere I thought it was one of Paul’s Blog
about sometimes you have to file the edge of the plane behind the blade (casting error) in order for the frog to sit properly. This is what I had to do with my block plane the casting was uneven and a couple of minutes with a flat diamond needle file the job was done. Its scary to take such an action fearing to ruin the whole thing but it was well worth the effort.here’s some more info.
Setting Up and Tuning a Hand Plane
http://lumberjocks.com/davidmicraig/blog/18799
http://www.americanwoodworker.com/blogs/tools/archive/2009/08/17/troubleshoot-your-plane.aspxIm not an expert by a long shot and there are some really great answers here. What I would do is STOP. Regrinding a casting on a plane that has presumable worked is a huge step and possibly a fatal error. I would completely disassemble the plane. Look at each piece one at a time for damage. Look at each piece and think how does it move and work? What surface does it ride against? What pushes it or pulls it? Put the pieces together one at a time- by hand -and see if it can move the way it should. Don’t put the whole thing together at once. Spend the time to find out what the problem is before trying fixes that may destroy your plane.
I black sharpie on bearing surfaces can tell you if they are engaging properly.Lets see if I can describe this simple I took the blade and frog out.
Noticed that looking from above that the slot in the base was obviously not square? using a combination square I mark the base from below with a sharpie.
From above laying the blade against the slot I could see that the blade was rising on one side hence the milling and casting of the slot was bad in two planes. Careful filing with a small file (don’t rush a few strokes at a time, stop recheck) remember in the old days the craftsman did most things by eye and a few simple trick example holding it against the light a glint shows the edge and out of true.
A few minutes trusting myself and a for the bin tool was a good one and some skill learnt and confidence gained just like Paul keeps saying.
Also a tool rescued ..Magic!4 July 2014 at 9:53 pm #59119In defense of grinding, I sent my #4 to a machine shop, it was pretty far gone having been dropped and chiped, the sole was thrashed. I tried flattening (black sharpy is your friend) it but I could not get it right as it ended up being .02 out. The machine shop did wonders, its dead flat now and works as well as my lie nielsen. Though I agree STOP, don’t grind. If it gets to that have a machinist check it out, they are great at square and flat! All fails I’d bring it to a machinist before giving up.
I had to back of my lever cap screw a turn or so, depends on how thick your cap iron and blade are. I replaced mine with hock replacements so it was now extra thick.
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