No4 stanley iron won’t back off sufficiently
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Thanks Larry!
As is, when the blade protrudes out of the mouth from edge to edge, the cut would be 2 3/8″ wide by 3/32″ deep. Perhaps there will be some future reincarnation of me capable of taking such a shaving, but the current one can’t. Furthermore, if I were to go for full width with the Lie-Nielsen scrub plane, the blade would protrude even more, and albeit the full width would be down to 1.45″, the depth of 7/64″ would be beyond me.
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Hypothesis: A scrub plane or a fore plane (long plane with a chamfered blade) is worked with only part of the blade protruding; creating grooves and “ridges”, with the sole resting on the ridges of preceding takes, in an overlapping manner.
While going across the grain, I can probably take out grooves of 1 1/16″ with the scrub (depth 3/128″); and while going oblique to diagonal with the fore plane, 1ΒΌ” widths (a good 1/64″ deep) – perhaps a bit more. I won’t make it along the board, and thus need to be able to retract the blade. On this Clifton plane this means the smaller distal part of the cap iron. Thankfully, Thomas Flinn-Garlick has a wonderful customer service, and will hopefully grind one down for me.Hi Sven-Olof,
Heavy cambers like you have put on your #6 are workarounds for the lack of a true scrub plane. Since you do have a scrub plane that would be best for the heaviest cuts. Once you have adopted this method, the #6 could be ground with a shallow camber or almost no camber depending on it’s desired use for stock preparation or smoothing, respectively.
Also, a #6 is a bit wide to use as a scrub plane because of the power required and the effect of the heavy curvature on a wide iron. You end up using less than half the width as you note.
I have gradually flattened out the middle of my improvised #5 scrub blade to widen the cut since going deeper is not practical in knotty woods.
Hi all,
This is a bit late, but I only recently returned to the plane that wouldn’t retract fully (so many other nice things to do). I indeed took a little bit off the front of the cap iron (1 mm at most) and that did the trick.
Thanks again for all your advice,
Sebastiaan
Bumping this 4 year old discussion in case someone comes back to it… I just ran into another cause for this problem. I have a Bailey #4 that does not retract fully. The cause seems to be the brass depth adjustment knob. On my other Stanley / Bailey planes, the depth adjuster will tighten fully against the frog. On this one, there is some interference that is stopping the knob about 1/32″ short. I can see a gap between the bottom of the adjuster and the back of the frog.
The interference may be between the back of the depth knob (next to the knurling) and the yoke. If I put a 1″ knob on instead of the 1 1/4″ one, it works fine. The thing is, though, that his frog appears to be a Type 16-20, but those frogs used 1 1/4″ knobs. So, I’m not sure what is going on.
If this is the problem, I could either swap the knob or file 1/32″ off the back of the yoke.
I’m trying to post photos and further description, but it isn’t coming through. I tried on Chrome and couldn’t even get it to let me attach a photo. On Safari, I can attach photos, am told that the system is verifying I am human, and then the post never shows up. Perhaps it is in review by a moderator. My experience in the past is that things that go to the moderator either disappear forever or take a long time (a week or three) to show up. I’m giving up on this for now.
I guess I can at least say that I did file the yoke and this partly corrected the problem. The adjuster knob could now fully seat against the frog. There still wasn’t quite enough retraction. Further examination showed that the nose of the yoke (that engages the cap iron) was narrower than on my other planes and was also contributing to the abnormal blade retraction. I wonder if this is a replacement yoke or a poorly manufactured one? I built up the nose of the yoke with JB Kwik weld and this would have been the final step, but as anticipated, there isn’t enough surface here, no keying, and too much pressure, so the JB Kwik broke off quickly. Time for a new yoke.
As a final comment, this is a Bailey, so it should be a decent plane. Also, this is a smoothing blade, not a heavily cambered jack or scrub blade. I keep a fine set on the cap iron, so that is not the issue, either. I really think it is the yoke and the combination of these two changes did fix the problem entirely, but the epoxy is just too fragile. Time for a new yoke.
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