Non-rectangular tables – mitred aprons an alternative?
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27 June 2017 at 10:44 pm #313313
A recess with a 45 degree corner is where my bonus-boy insists his writing desk must go, and as pacta sunt servanda I am now trying to make one with one rear corner sawn off at 45 degrees. The cut went nicely enough, but unfortunately did the design phase of this project not go into any depth on how to handle a fifth corner, nor what joinery would be suitable.
After having rejected a fifth leg, I ended up with one apron going oblique from the rear leg and meeting one, coming from the front leg, at 135 degrees
[attachment file=313314]Hand tool woodworking has the great advantage that one can construct by trying and adapting, which clearly was behind me actually managing to get the two pieces of apron to size and direction. But how to join them? A suggested “stub” leg was immediately voted down by family majority, so right now the plan is for a bracket on the inside, using screws as well as glue. It won’t be visible – the receiver is quite adamant on drawers and hidden compartments.
[attachment file=313315]Two books (Illustrated Cabinetmaking: How to Design and Construct Furniture that Works by Bill Hylton; and With all The Precision Possible by André-Jacob Roubo (to English by DC Williams et al.)) described curved aprons as alternatives. The former provided a drawing of mitred pieces glued together in a brick-wall structure, while Mr Roubo visualised overlapping oblique scarfing joints. Mr Hylton’s concept seems to be in reach, but would require some split-cutting [by hand]. Mr Roubo’s version, while not asking for split-cutting, is at a level that I can’t even draw.
Any suggestions, ideas, or encouraging words are more than welcome.
/soj[attachment file=313316]
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You must be logged in to view attached files.so a carcass miter to join the aprons, is that what you’re talking about? How long would it be? A lengthy miter, without a long miter shooting board, is really tough to get just right.
If it’s just a few inches, you can get it in a reasonable amount of time. Spline the miter, or perhaps some bowties, etc, to add strength, and you might be off and running.
Trying to think about racking stresses…is that corner of the table seated into the corner? If so, it will minimize any motion from that corner, and that’ll be less stress on the joint.
How about a dovetail? See an example about 1/3 of the way down the page at http://davidbarronfurniture.blogspot.com/2013/09/ .
I agree with Ed…worried about stresses. I’d think about adding a member that goes between your rear leg (obtuse angle, not 90) and the long, front rail. It could be M&T at the front and a couple of tenons at the rear, probably not through because of aesthetics. Adding this provides might increase the torsionally strength of the top. On the other hand, it is just wasted complexity if the joint you’re trying to figure out is strong enough. My intuition is that the joint you’re trying to figure out will see a twisting force.
Here’s a sketch of what I mean. Actually, if the short side is the back, and if it is going into a corner, maybe you don’t even need to run the apron across that corner. Build what’s in the sketch, toss the top on it, and voila. If it will be seen from the side, that may be different.
28 June 2017 at 9:03 am #313334Probably the strongest way to do it is to cut out a slot into both pieces and insert a steel angle bent to the correct angle.
Any metalworkshop can make you one, and since its in the slot its hidden, at most you’ll see the screws of Naila to securr it inside28 June 2017 at 3:10 pm #313336Thanks everyone for coming back!
Edmund,
The two aprons are 100 mm (4″) high and meet end grain to end grain at a 135 degree angle. At dry fitting they came together well enough (“mi’te ‘ave been better”), and hopefully that will also be the outcome after gluing up.Ed,
Thanks for the link and the drawing. I had a dovetail joint in mind, could not quite envision it, and after seen the photo on Mr Barron’s blog I think it would have been a tad out of reach for me. There are two rails connecting the front legs to each other. The upper rail (directly below the surface) is joined with dovetails into to the top of the legs, while the lower rail is attached with double tenons and mortices (in hindsight, sliding dovetails would have been easier). All other joints for the undercarriage are aprons tenoned into the legs (please see attached photo: attachment file=”Table_Ready_For_Glue_Up.JPG”). There will be drawer supports going from front to back which should help in stabilising.Philipp,
Am planning to use an angulated bracket, though made one out of wood. My hardware store very generously gave me one, normally used for rafters in house building. I’m not at all fastidious about combining wood with metal. My wooden one has a sharper edge along the angle, which facilitates aligning it along the inner end edge of the apron, but the metal one is very easy to clamp; probably making it easier to fit the two aprons.Cheers
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You must be logged in to view attached files.28 June 2017 at 3:14 pm #313338Ok since it doesnt let me edit my post,
Heres another thing you could do since you already have one shaped leg you could shape the other and just add a straight rail instead of the dog legged one.
Like what i’ve drawn in with red here,youd have to work out the angles but the tabletop wouldnt have too much unsupported overhang this way.
Other then that id really use a Steel angle either on the inside or in a Slot like i mentioned earlier, drawn in with green.
Just my 2 cents, maybe some of the other guys have better ideas.EDIT: Oh well then scrap that idea, a Wooden bracket for rafters should work just fine.
- This reply was modified 6 years, 9 months ago by Philipp J..
28 June 2017 at 8:15 pm #313340Thanks Phillip!
Did try to suggest a straight apron running oblique between the left front and rear legs, but the receiver really wants that space for hidden drawers and compartments, and after having received both the Headmaster’s reward and recognition for being in top-10 of the year-group of his school, I don’t think I have that much of negotiation position.
Will go with the wooden bracket I have made; probably only to resort to the metal one because the wooden intrudes on the drawer supports.
At least no one has stated that a continuous curved apron is the only safe version.
Cheers
/soj -
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