Viewing 10 posts - 16 through 25 (of 25 total)
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    Dave Riendeau

    Sandy, good to hear you got it sorted out.


    david o’sullivan

    this was an interesting discussion which i found a lot of helpful information. thanks guys

    "we can learn what to do, by doing" Aristotle


    Here is one of my blades:

    You can clearly see the corners taken back to another plane from the edge. If I let the corners go back after resharpening, just a bit, then I can see tracks when working 1 thou shavings, This one works for almost 3 thou or more.

    My recommendation is that if you have tracks at one thou, dont hesitate to take the corners out, just go back and make several strokes more. If you over do it, dont worry, in two or three sharpenings you will have it back where you started.

    Good Luck-


    From El Salvador, currently living in Guatemala


    Found some pics with description of blade profiles here:

    Of the planes that i’ve purchased (all used) the best cared for came with the “rounded corners”. I think Paul’s method yields the “crowned” profile. As far as i can see, either should produce similar results for smoothing.

    New Brunswick, Canada

    Steve Follis

    That is some good information and description Barry, thanks for posting.

    Memphis, Tennessee

    Ron Harper

    I think it has already been said, but it helps to remember. When you plane a surface wider than your plane iron, you are literally cutting a groove in the surface. It is not possible to remove the edges of the groove. We strive to make them all but imperceptible. I have found that the technique of just taking a slight extra amount of the outside quarter inch on each side of the iron works best for me. This took me a while to produce consistent results. Another helpful practice for me is that when I am doing final surface prep, I take very light shavings


    Ron, respectfully, I disagree with your post. I would say you are removing high spots rather than cutting a groove when planing. If the blade is properly cambered and set, there should not be any plane tracks.

    If you are using a heavily-set blade to remove material, there should still be no plane tracks as the blade should have a smaller radius and more pronounced camber. A smoothing plane blade would have the largest radius and least camber but the smallest set so still no plane tracks.

    My only blades without a camber are those used in my block planes and #7 jointer plane where my plane width is usually wider than the material I am planing so plane tracks are not an issue.


    I discovered another problem that I introduced into my plan from reading a recent blog post by Paul. Over several sharpening I have change the angle of my plane iron quit a bit and it is closer to 40 deg than the suggested 30.

    RL I think there is a misunderstanding concerning the groove affect of planing. If I am surface planing to get a particular thickness then I am in theory cutting a grove. You are correct though if I am smoothing the surface from a rough cut then yes I am taking the high spots off. In reality if I start on one side of the surface and work my way across as Paul describes in several of his videos then the material ahead of the plane is higher than the area behind the plane. So there is no “groove” in reality unless my plane is out of whack. Which mine often is… 🙂

    There is a lot of good information on this thread. Thank you all for the suggestions and the great comments.

    Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results.

    Albert Einstein

    Mick Mercer

    Thanks for starting this Sandy and thanks to everyone for the input. I have found this a very useful set of posts and will go play with my plane and iron to see what works for me.

    Thanks again some really useful stuff.




    I understand what you are saying, but I believe what I wrote still holds. Even when using a jack plane for thicknessing (or a scrub plane) the camber on the blade should be sufficient that the shavings feather away at the edges. So it’s not a groove so much as a very shallow series of U-shaped undulations.

    If you are making a plane track, then the corner of the blade is exposed and you don’t have sufficient camber on it or the adjuster is pushed too far to one side.

    I can’t think of a single situation when a plane track is acceptable (apart from when starting a rebate perhaps?).

    As to your blade angle issue, it sounds like it might be time to regrind the primary angle!


Viewing 10 posts - 16 through 25 (of 25 total)
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