Planing & Thicknessing Timber, getting wood Flat Square and True
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Not all hand work, but still some very good info
http://idostuff.co.uk/sections/DIY/Timber%20preparation%203.html
I would like to see a video of Paul’s techniques on taking rough lumber to size. I know he’s done it in the stock preparation video, but would like to see how he does it on a large width board, say 1″x12″x 3′ long. I’ve seen various methods and descriptions of using scrub planes, standard planes across the grain, followed by a smoother, etc. Do you start on the cupped face or the bowed face, etc.? I’d just like to see his methods.
Hey @jwinship,
We don’t have it on quite a 12″ wide board but we do have a video coming up where he does all these things to a 5-6″ x 1″ x 3′ board.
The video is edited and is processing. I should have it up over the weekend.
Awesome! That’ll work great. Thanks Joseph.
I’ve been using my scrub plane to bring boards down to 1/2 inch for the dovetail boxes. I’m sure there are better methods, but holy cow, scrub planes are fun 🙂
-Canada
Hey @jwinship, We don’t have it on quite a 12″ wide board but we do have a video coming up where he does all these things to a 5-6″ x 1″ x 3′ board. The video is edited and is processing. I should have it up over the weekend.
Hey Joseph or Paul, what size of radius does Paul put on his heavily cambered “scrub” plane blade?
Just moved to NE Ohio
I am not totally sure what radius Paul uses but I am nearly certain that he has never measured it. The joy of doing it the way he does is that it is scalable. I would say round it a bit and try it and round it some more.
If I had to guess I would guess 12″ but that really is just a guess.
You know, on reflection, I like that answer. Thanks. I’m still working on the figure 8 honing pattern for cambered blades and gouges. That requires some serious coordination.
Just moved to NE Ohio
Hey all. I’ve got a slight problem when planing I hope someone can answer. When planing down the grain, I get what looks like chatter marks at the beginning of the board for about 1/4″ to 1/2″. The wood is planing smooth as silk after that. I’ve studied it a while and I think what is happening is that as the plane iron first contacts the beginning edge of the wood, it is hopping up and then back down quickly into the wood. I’ve tried various ways to solve this and can’t figure out where I’m going wrong in my technique. It happens at any thickness setting, thick or micro thin, any wood, hard or soft, but it is a bit more noticeable in hard wood. Super sharp blade, oiled sole, etc. Any help?
Hi Jeff, same thing happens to me. I think the culprit is a combination of things from vibration, sharpness and technique. Reclamping in a different position and starting my planing stroke at a skewed angle usually solves the problem.
-Canada
Hi Jeff,
maybe your heel is a bit low when your blade meets the edge of the board and gets level as soon as the center of gravity of the plane is on the board. I don’t know about the iron planes but I would guess that there is more weight behind the blade than in front of it.
By pressing down the front knob of your plane your heel should be level the moment it bites into the edge.
Florian
I enjoy working wood in Germany.
Hi Eric,
I marked a seven inch radius on my blade because my compass does not allow a larger radius and ended up with maybe a 9″ radius.
I think it doesn’t have to be a precise number. I would say the smaller the radius the deeper you can dig but I just prepared a single scrub iron so far and that radius was more or less coincidence.
@Dave: I agree! It is fun and stress relieving 🙂
I enjoy working wood in Germany.
Thanks Dave & Florian, I’ll get it a shot tonight.
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