Question about Abrasive Paper
Welcome! / Forums / General Woodworking Discussions / Tools and Tool Maintenance/Restoration / Question about Abrasive Paper
Tagged: abrasive paper, Plane Restoration
- This topic has 6 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 6 years, 10 months ago by rustifer.
-
AuthorPosts
-
13 April 2017 at 5:06 pm #311075
Hello All: In his Plane restoration video, Paul used abrasive paper from a roll. I believe he said it was 120 grit. I looked on Amazon and found this: PERFORMAX TYPE READY-TO-CUT ABRASIVE SANDPAPER ROLLS -120 GRIT PW007. Seems like it is for a drum sander. Is this going to be good for restoring the Stanley #5 and Millers Falls 900? I just got them both at a flea market and am looking forward to making them work
At 120 grit, it really doesn’t matter too much — you’re still in the rough stuff, just hacking off material. More important is the surface on which you’re flattening, and your technique. When you get down past 400 grit or even grits measured in microns (and I’m not saying it’s necessary to go down that far), then it’s time to worry about the paper.
13 April 2017 at 8:48 pm #311080I cant agree with the previous statements, i found that theres actually a huge different in Sandpaper. The cheap stuff tends to rip, tear or even flake off Grit under heavy use and wears out much much faster, of course it does work and is cheap but i wouldnt cheap out on abrasives.
For example i flattened the backs of an entire set of chisels on a single sheet of high quality wet&dry Sandpaper (60 grit) and it still is useable if nowhere near as agressive as it was, i tried doing it with cheap sandpaper before and wore out quite a few sheets.
I’d just buy a couple of sheets of Good Quality Wet&Dry or theres Sandpaper especially for Metall.
As for Brands i can recommend the German Matador, otherwise just google whats the best you can get at a reasonable price.14 April 2017 at 9:24 am #311095It matters what type of abrasive material is used in the sandpaper. I usually cut up belt sander belts.
For fast metal removal you might want to use aluminum-zirconium ( usually Blue sanding belts) cut the belt at the splice. It will cut fast at first, then get a bit slower as the grains get rounded. You can break up the grains and get fresh edges by applying more pressure for a few strokes. Use a brush or vacuum the black iron on the belt often.
Faster yet are ceramic belts ( usually orange) , but they are more expensive. Both of these types are usually not found in grits finer than about 120 grit.
For finer grits choose aluminum Oxide ( norton belts are usually brown)or the standard wet-dry black paper, which will be the slowest cutting of the ones I mention.
Some abrasives are too soft for cast iron, like garnet or crocus
The best place to find these products are at automotive paint supply stores, which often also carry them in pressure sensitive adhesive backed rolls.
2 June 2017 at 9:24 pm #312508I agree with that there is a big difference in sandpaper. I have used the cheap dollar store stuff and some expensive name brand. If I have my choice, I will go with the expensive stuff any day of the week. It lasts a lot longer, cuts and holds together longer.
- This reply was modified 6 years, 10 months ago by Thomas Angle.
-
AuthorPosts
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.