Rabbet block plane vs regular block plane
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Tagged: Rabbet block plane
- This topic has 13 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 6 years ago by Jukka Huuskonen.
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27 March 2018 at 3:48 am #509519
Hi, I’m gathering a beginner tool set and I have chance to get quite cheap rabbet block plane.
However, I don’t have money to get both regular block plane and rabber block plane. Can that rabbet plane act as a normal block plane so that I don’t need to get both (at least not right now) or is there some fundamental difference with their usage?
-Jukka
27 March 2018 at 4:12 am #509570I don’t see why you couldn’t use a rabbet block plane for normal things. It is a more fragile plane than a regular block plane due to the cutout sides for the iron, so it’s much more likely to break if you drop it. It might be a decent alternative to a shoulder plane. That said, I don’t think I’ve ever seen Paul reach for a block plane, so he would probably tell you it’s not an essential tool. That said, I use mine all the time.
If you are looking at a skew blade rabbet block plane such as a Stanley No.140, I’d buy it if the price is right. Make sure that it has the right hand side plate, which is often missing. As Alan said, regular block planes are plentiful and cheap.
Dave
- This reply was modified 6 years ago by Dave Ring.
I own a Lie Nielsen rabbet block plane, which I bought when I was making cabriole legs. I thought it would help level the posts to the apron yet allow me to get all the way down to the shoulder and also thought it would be useful for adjusting tenons. It does both of those things, but I must say it is one of the most finicky planes to adjust that I own. I avoid using it. The problem is that, while there is a depth adjustment wheel, there is also a blade tension knob. You cannot adjust the depth or angle of cut when the blade tension is high enough to actually use the plane. You must loosen the tension first. The problem is that it is hard to find a “loose tension” that is loose enough to adjust the plane, but is tight enough that it doesn’t slop around during adjustment or change its adjustment when you fully tighten the blade tension. I have gotten better and suspect with more practice it will be a good plane, but right now it is just frustrating. Now, it is quite possible that the regular LN block plane is just as fussy. I don’t know. I’ve never used one. My cheap hardware store Stanley block plane doesn’t have these problems. I should try tapping the adjustment with a small hammer, maybe.
So, having said all that, I’ll add that, if you are making your first tool set and your budget is limited, skip both of the block planes. They aren’t essential and other tools will probably be more important.
If it is super cheap, the blade is clean, and the plane functions, then maybe I’d consider getting it. Yes, it will do what a normal block plane does with the exception of anything that is like a shooting board because, in those cases, the rabbet block plane will cut into the fixture. That’s not something you really do with a block plane, though. If you made a lot of small pieces and used a pair of rails to guide a plane to thickness the small pieces, that would be a case when the regular block plane would be used in this fashion. I think Paul did this in one of the projects, but he just used his #4.
27 March 2018 at 7:18 pm #511073One thing to consider is that it’s pretty easy to badly cut yourself by jut grabbing a rebate plane of any sort on the exposed blade. Putting on in your shop apron pocket, for instance, I out of the question.
27 March 2018 at 8:00 pm #511160I should try tapping the adjustment with a small hammer, maybe
That’s what the Lie Neilsen demonstrators were doing at the last tool event I went to, not only with the rebate plane, but with all the bench planes as well.
They sell a brass and an A2 steel hammer for the purpose.$$$.
@lorenzojose how were they retracting the blade? Where they tapping the plane body at the heel, like you’d do with a wooden plane? I wouldn’t want to hit the front and it’s a bit of a really fine aim to hit the blade or the heel without hitting the adjuster at the rear!
Maybe I’ll just whack it with a framing hammer. That’ll settle it.
The cynic in me wants to know if they were adjusting planes or selling hammers.
27 March 2018 at 11:21 pm #511461@lorenzojose how were they retracting the blade? Where they tapping the plane body at the heel, like you’d do with a wooden plane? I wouldn’t want to hit the front and it’s a bit of a really fine aim to hit the blade or the heel without hitting the adjuster at the rear!
For some metal planes, it’s a one way adjustment, like the old 45’s and 50’s or my #289. It’s not that big a deal if the tensioner is a screw and not a wedge. If you overshoot, start over. Or a wood mallet was mentioned, but they didn’t have one. I’m not sure it’s a good idea on iron, even if it’s malleable iron. I’d never do it on a Stanley.
For the bench planes, you back up with the adjuster wheel and used the backlash to go forward or side to side. It was only for small adjustment. And yes, the LN planes have backlash.And the fine aim thing is why they sell their cross peen hammer for $85.
They claim their A2 hammer is softer than the A2 irons. They also sell the brass version if you also want to adjust O1 blades. ( they said the A2 wouldn’t hurt O1 blades, but I’m not sure they meant the old Stanley laminated ones that are barely hard way from the edge.)
Veritas makes a plane hammer with brass and maple heads that’s made for wood planes.
You do get finer adjustment with a little hammer than with the lever, but you can get little ones with nylon at one end and brass on the other for under $5 at HF. I’ve used one on my wood bodied planes for years, and also for my 289 and 60 1/2.
I just found a piece of brass rod with the idea of making a Japanese style adjuster.Grace makes one for about $20. One guy suggested filing flats on it to make it a little narrower. Grace also makes a brass hammer with delrin on one end. Also about $20.
- This reply was modified 6 years ago by Larry Geib.
- This reply was modified 6 years ago by Larry Geib.
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.There are two basic styles of rabbet block planes and I’m not sure which one Jukka is considering.
The Sargent style Has a t-shaped iron like on a Stanley No.10 that is slightly wider than the width of the plane body which is open on both sides, permiting either right- or left-handed use.
The Stanley No.140 (and the nearly identical Millers Falls N0.5) is a true dual purpose tool. It has skewed iron and a removable sideplate for use as a rabbet plane. This is my favorite block plane and works brilliantly on end grain. I don’t think I’ve ever used it on rabbets as there are better tools for that.
Larry Geib makes a good point regarding the exposed corner of the iron on rabbet planes but on the No.140, as long as the side plate is installed it’s no more (or less) hazardous than any other block plane.
Lie-Nielsen makes planes in both styles but with the irons set at a lower angle than the vintage models. Very nice and very spendy.
Dave
28 March 2018 at 12:12 am #511505Larry is exactly right here. I own one of the skew block planes and once really gouged my hand deeply. It’s worse with the skew models as the iron is a sharp exposed point. If you get the kind with the optional side plate, make sure to keep it installed when your not cutting\trimming rabbets.
28 March 2018 at 1:43 am #511581I was speaking from experience. I once was a little preoccupied and picked up my 289 skew rebate plane like a block plane and had to get stitches. I had just sharpened it to a razor edge.
I have dozens of planes at my workbench, including 3 LN block planes. I almost never use them. Rarely is there something I can’t do with a bench plane. Couldn’t tell you why. They would work fine, I just don’t grab them when I have the #3 or #4 already on the bench top.
28 March 2018 at 6:28 am #511754Hi guys,
Thanks for valuable info.
Considering the safety issues and the little use many of you seem to have for block planes on general I think I’ll be skipping this plane.
Someone was wondering which kind of plane I was considering, so here is a link to the same kind of plane at Fine-tools (which is great shop btw ):
Juuma/Luban rabbet block plane
Thanks
Jukka -
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