Replacing broken plane handles
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Tagged: Replacement plane handles
- This topic has 41 replies, 14 voices, and was last updated 6 years ago by Edmund Sergeant.
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30 September 2014 at 10:28 am #118711
Thanks again Sid, I may well be ordering a Rittner tote yet depending on how I get on at making one. I have fairly large hands so I appreciate the information about a thicker blank. I have a Disston saw that I bought off Ebay, I find the handle on that a bit small for me, the top of it sticks into my hand between my thumb and forefinger and is a bit uncomfortable. The next job will be to sort that out after I’ve studied Paul’s video on how to adapt saw handles.
I’ll make a start on one of his projects soon, that’s what I keep telling myself anyway. Just a few more things to sharpen, mend and clean first……Hi Guys,
I have a Stanely No.4 that I picked up on eBay. Great to see this thread on the totes. The biggest problem I have with my plane is the tote is loose, I presume from wear on the bottom where it seats against the plane body. I’m thinking of taking a piece of mahogany and bonding a strip along the bottom to extend it. Has anyone had this before, any tips or suggestions? To get a good glue surface I was going to pare it back with a chisel as my 1 plane is out of action!
Michael,
I think this is a fairly common occurrence.
Adding a piece to the bottom as you suggest is certainly possible, but before you go to that extent there are a couple of easy things you can try from this previous thread.
Best,
CraigHi Craig, I tried some of the shortcuts and it improved the tote but was still moving a little so ended out added a strip of pine to the bottom about 5mm thick as a test and it’s rock solid now. I’ll make one out of mahogany at some stage but I have a couple projects to get done first.
16 October 2014 at 7:53 pm #119609After a slight delay I am hoping to cut the blanks this weekend coming.
I’ve just had a look at the plans and am surprised to see the direction of grain running across the tote horizontally ( but I am a novice), I was thinking that the strongest direction of grain would have been the same direction as the hole through the tote. The totes that I am replacing are made from a resin so I couldn’t study them for grain direction.
Can anyone tell me why the grain has to run this way please? I’m not questioning it, just trying to learn.EDIT: Well, I suppose I am questioning it but I’m not suggesting it’s wrong, just trying to make sense and understand of why the grain should run that way.
Jim, good question I don’t know the answer to. The LV templates show the grain running at a 45 instead of 90 to the bolt hole which seemed to be common on the older planes. It’s just a hunch but I suspect it might be due to edge grain being more durable to wear and tear and for ease of shaping. You don’t really need to worry about strength, it will be plenty strong and I suspect more totes were/are broken from people knocking them off their bench than are broken from using them.
17 October 2014 at 7:53 pm #119631Thanks for the reply Dave, I never thought of the end grain being easier to shape but that makes sense. I can’t wait to get cracking.
18 October 2014 at 7:34 am #119652It gives the “horn” on top the most favorable grain orientation so the tip doesn’t break off because of short grain.
Same principle is followed with saw handles, grain runs straight through the narrowest, weakest part of the handle for strength.
4 November 2014 at 8:22 pm #120524Thank you for all the advice given so far, I have now started making a new tote but need some advice on gluing please. Gluing?…..Why does he need advice with gluing when working with a solid blank of wood? I hear you all say. Well, I’ve sort of gone a bit wrong!
Due to certain circumstances (mainly because I am cack handed) I need to add some more wood to the top of my tote to get it to the correct height before I start rasping.
My tote is mainly maple and I am trying to sandwich a strip of Sapele near the top of the tote to bring it back up to the correct height, a sort of go faster stripe, which could make me the owner of the only Stanley 5 1/2 GTI plane in Derbyshire.Anyway, one side of the sandwich has taken really well but the other side has now failed twice. As far as I can tell I have both the gluing surfaces flat and free from contaminents, I am using Evo-stick weather proof wood adhesive and have given it 24 hours to cure both times. I am not sure quite where I am going wrong. It has dropped a bit cooler at night now but it is still a good 7 degrees celcius in my shed at night and quite warm during the day still. Has anyone got any pointers to gluing up that I may have missed please?
Kind regards
Jim
6 November 2014 at 8:09 pm #120669Thanks Dave, I left it in the house overnight and it seems to have done the trick. I can get on with shaping and rasping it now.
Kind regards
Jim -
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