14 February 2019 at 10:37 pm #555110
I recently acquired some Marples firmer chisels. Two of them have split ferrules. How do I go about replacing them?
Also, would I risk damaging the chisel if I used it whilst it has as split ferrules? They are ash handled.
Any help would be much appreciated as I’m at a bit of a loss.15 February 2019 at 2:25 am #555114
Easy enough to do.
First, remove the handles by holding the blade in a vise and use a block of wood as a cushion, knock off the handle. May take several blows to do so.
Using calipers measure the outside diameter of the ferrule tenon. That will determine the ID. of the tubing you need ( may be different for each chisel).
Typically the OD. will be 3/4″ with a wall thickness of 0.032″.
I use onlinemetals.com for brass tubing.
As an example, part #21052
from them is what I use.
To cut the tubing I use a hack saw and a jig.
Hopefully the photo shows up that illustrates this.
SW Pennsylvania15 February 2019 at 2:52 am #555117
If you have a hard time locating some brass tubing you can use copper water pipe. It is almost the same strength of brass and comes annealed so it shouldn’t be brittle. I have done this. The local big box hardware store sells 1′ stubs of this for repairs. You can use a tubing cutter for this.15 February 2019 at 5:32 am #555118
I’ve had pretty good luck with air/gas/hydraulic line ferrules. They have a nice rounded front edge.
If you hunt you’ll find them in Brass, Bronze, copper, or stainless.
For aesthetics, make sure they aren’t just plated steel. I think gas line ones are brass to avoid sparks.
It’s best to go to an air tool or welding supply house that makes custom hoses. If you are cute and batt your eyelids, the person that makes ‘em might give you one the right size.15 February 2019 at 1:22 pm #555123
Continuing on from Craig’s nice instructions…..complete the ferule replacement, use the chisel for a couple of months until the weather changes, the handles shrink a bit from from drying out, and then see the new ferules loosen up and fall off. Repeat as needed. :- ). The ferules all fell off of the handles I made for my lathe tools. I didn’t make the tenons tight enough to deal with seasonal changes, or the wood just dried more after fabrication. My point is, wait for those handles to equilibrate if you think your shop is drier than where they came from. They may have been damp in their last home and that’s why the ferules split.15 February 2019 at 7:20 pm #555131
Thank you all for your responses, I’ll look for the equivalent sellers as I live in the UK.
Before posting this I looked on Toolnut and Ashley Iles as they both sell brass ferrules for chisels but the dimensions don’t quite match up with mine. If I bought some but they were slightly too big how would I pack out the handle to ensure a snug fit?
Also, would I risk damaging the handle if I use the chisels in the meantime whilst the ferrules are split?
Sorry for so many questions.15 February 2019 at 11:45 pm #555137
One thing you can do is put the handles in a couple hundred dergee oven for a half hour, then gently crush where the ferrule sits with a hammer.
After you install the ferrule, dip the handle in water for a second.
You can probably pare and use the chisel lightly, but I wouldn’t pry a mortice or anything without the ferrule. It partly depends on how long the tang is and how it fits in its hole. The greatest risk is seating the tang without the ferrule to prevent splitting.16 February 2019 at 12:23 am #555138
Before you start cooking and beating on your handles you may want to try some gel epoxy to fill the gap.
Failing that, Toolnut offers complete replacement handles in a variety of woods and styles.
Here’s the link if it comes thru.
SW Pennsylvania16 February 2019 at 3:02 am #555139
I will back Craig’s recomendation for the use of epoxy.
I have replaced the ferrules on my Lidl chisels, and one Narex chisel as well, with solid brass ones (purchased from Ray Iles https://www.oldtoolstore.co.uk) and I have used epoxy since they were slightly larger than the handle. Despite the the great variance of humidity in my garage workshop last year (from 80%-90% usually to 30% during summer) the ferrules stayed in place and I had no problem chopping mortices etc.
I have also used copper tube as a ferrule for my (shopmade) plane screwdriver and split saw nut screwdriver and it works perfectly well. It’s just a matter of preference I think wether you like the colour of brass or copper on your tools as it seems that, in regards of stuctural strenght, there is no big difference between them.16 February 2019 at 7:37 pm #555143
A plumber’s tube-cutter will get a square, clean edge that’s neater than hacksaw & filing.21 February 2019 at 9:52 pm #555270
Just an update. I decided to order the 15mm and 19mm ferrules ofd Ashley Iles site. As there was only a millimeter in difference on the internal diameter between the handle and ferrule on both I decided to pare the wood down slightly and now the ferrules fit snug. Thank you all for your advice, no doubt it’ll help me in the future.
[attachment file=555271]22 February 2019 at 1:25 am #555275
Ok, this is cool enough to give it a try.
I cast lead soldiers as a kid before lead was toxic.
The guys at Mortise and Tenon magazine posted on Instagram today about casting ferrules with Britannia pewter right on the tool.
The “form” is card stock and masking tape.
I’ve Ben picking up pewter spoons at the thrift stores for an idea I had casting wood plane parts. Britannia isn’t the old pewter that had lead in it. It’s typically 92% tin with copper and Antimony added. Lots of flatware has been made of the stuff. “English” pewter is pretty similar.
Flatware will either say Britannia on it or have a touchmarke that includes EPBM on it.View this post on Instagram
“For pouring [pewter ferrules], I secured the pad vertically in locking pliers on top of a plywood scrap. After hacksawing a chunk of “Britannia” pewter from the ingot, I melted it directly into a casting ladle. By pointing a MAPP gas torch directly at the pewter, it became 600° molten metal within seconds. (Words to the wise: Don’t spill.) The first time I did this, I didn’t know what to expect. To be honest, for all my trepidation and anticipation, the actual pour was surprisingly unremarkable – I tipped the ladle and the metal filled the hole to the brim. Easy as pie. After about 10 minutes, the pewter had cooled and I faired and smoothed it with files. Curious about the structural integrity of these ferrules, I cast a 1/8" ring onto the end of a dowel and proceeded to beat the snot out of it. Even after driving a pile of wedge-shaped cut nails deep into the end grain of the dowel, the pewter didn’t flinch. Instead, the dowel shattered several inches below the ferrule. Then, I pulled the mess apart and hammered the ferrule by itself – it took considerable abuse to get it to deform noticeably. Based on this simple experiment, I am confident that pewter ferrules are more than sufficient for a bit pad. Brass or steel ferrules can also be used but they won’t have the dovetail-type locking advantage of this casting method, and fitting them is a somewhat meticulous job. Because molten pewter fills all voids, the pad’s column can be any random size or shape. Because of this, I believe casting pewter is the fastest, easiest, and most effective of the ferrule options.” -Joshua A. Klein, an excerpt from his article in upcoming Issue Six titled “The Wooden Brace: Bitstock Technology for the 21st Century” (Link in profile.) #mtmagissuesix #pewter #braceandbit #bitstock #makeyourowntools
A post shared by Mortise & Tenon Magazine (@mortise_and_tenon_mag) on
Britannia melts at 600° F so. just a propane or Mapp gas torch will melt it.
Here’s a site that shows what the touch marks look like.
You can also order Britannia online for about $20 a pound. That’s a lot of ferrules.
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