Resawing techniques
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31 August 2015 at 6:06 pm #129965
I’ve used a number of methods for re-sawing. I have a 10 inch band saw that has a 4 1/2 inch capacity that I use for small projects. I’ve used the table saw for wider material. I also have a lunchbox style planer that sees some use. I also have a 6 inch benchtop jointer that hasn’t been used in about a year and a half (since I learned how to flatten a board with the hand planes.)
My general work flow would be to flatten one face and square one edge. Cut to rough length and rip to width. Resaw if required. Flatten the second side, either by hand or with the planer. If I used the planer, I’ll use the smoothing plane to take the planer marks out. I’ll generally only use the planer if I need stock precisely to thickness. (It’s very loud and messy.)
I don’t apologize for using machines for stock preparation. My shop time is limited and I would rather spend the time doing the fun stuff. I have learned how to do most of this by hand, but sometimes it’s worth it to let the machines do what they are good at.
For me the choice was easier as I am new to woodworking in general not migrating from machine to hand. I would love to have a bandsaw and may yet get one but for now I thought the frame saw kerfing plane combo would be good to try. I’m not doing this for production and need the exercise anyway (grin). I havent got it built yet as I just got the kit. If any are interested it is on sale right now. Tom has many videos on the making and shaping of the tools. Bad Axe Toolworks
1 September 2015 at 1:58 am #129986Contact Tom before making the saw as he has made changes to it as the other one he made was out of alignment. I’m not exactly sure as to what it was but it’s a good idea to get it from the source.
You will find this saw to be most useful, absolutely bandsaws are the ultimate and most versatile machines and so is a scroll saw comparing to a fret saw but you are limited to throat capacity and that’s when you will pull out your frame saw, it may take longer but it will do the job. without one you will be left scratching your head. Every tool has it’s place.
4 September 2015 at 11:20 am #130077Regarding kerfing plane and frame saw, there are some good impressions available in this youtube list of the unplugged woodshop (Tom Fidgen)
8 September 2015 at 2:59 pm #130176@gallarotti,
Great to see what some of you are working through to get woodworking.One video in which Paul saws from both sides is the winding sticks. The other is the coasters I think, although it isn’t very wide stock in either case. Think there is another but can’t think of it.
We do prepare some stock by hand here at the workshop, although we often prep the stock by machine for the classes and sometimes for the video pieces as our time is limited. However anyone apprenticing always learns how to do it by hand and Paul enjoys being able to do it by hand every now and then. If the correct procedure is followed, it is no less accurate than the machine. It’s on of those things that needs to be repeated and can be frustrating, but you get to a stage where it clicks and you start to get consistent accurate results.
Guessing you’ve watched the Rough Stock Prep video, but have you seen the “Preparing Stock for a Table” videos on the Trestle Table Project Info page? There is a lot of information on planing stock to thickness, which is somewhat more common than sawing wide boards to thickness. Will move them to the tool and technique section to make them more accessible:
https://woodworkingmasterclasses.com/2015/04/trestle-table-project-info/
Re saws, you will struggle to rip with the 10tpi crosscut, but as already mentioned you can crosscut with a 10 tpi ripcut handsaw.
Hope that helps,
Phil@Philip, I think the other video you are thinking of is the episode where the tills are made for the Joiner’s box. I watched again for the nth time last night and had a Revelation…
@gallarotti, My first attempt was bad due to dropping the angle way too much the angleI used tonight more reflects what Paul used on the tills. I enjoyed much better results. Not perfect yet, but much better and I know what to do to get better…practice 🙂Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5TytD0CP6iY is a video by stubby nubs and at about 14:30 he gives some good numbers on TPI vs would thickness. That should help in picking a hand saw to use.
I see Trooper82 did a nice resaw. I have done some myself on 4/4 to get 2 1.5 in thick boards. It takes being slow and careful, but still faster than one would expect with a sharpened saw.
24 January 2016 at 5:50 am #134133I have a 3.5 tpi ripsaw and does not cut any faster, when it comes to resawing only I stick to using my bandsaw. I read in a finewoodworking mag about using a 1/2″ 4.5 tpi blade on bandsaws for ripping amazingly it does a brilliant job.
I prefer to do all of my sawing by hand when possible but frankly, resawing anything wide or long is a pain in the you know what. When I built my bench, my apron ended up being too wide and I had to saw down 5′ of end-grain by hand to make it fit. Royal pain. But for larger lengths and dimensions, I don’t know what other options most of us have (or would prefer). I do enjoy the exercise…to a degree! I would think the framing saw would be pretty effective at sawing down end grain and accommodating relatively wider boards.
I have the “luxury” of having a bandsaw but perhaps my techniqe on it is just not that great. I have had to replace a couple of blades that I have broken and getting the blades perfectly aligned on the wheels and then properly tuned/tensioned can be cumbersome at times. It’s a cheap Craftsman bandsaw and if properly set it will work up to 4″ or so wide.
For boards 4″-6″+ I have used a method on my small/portable table-saw. I make sure the blade is square and that the fence is square and make a few, slow passes through with the board–always making sure to keep the reference side against the fence. The tricky/scary part here is keeping pressure against the side of the board as it passes along the blade and making sure the blade doesn’t get jammed up inside the board. If you can outfit a sacrificial fence that doesn’t get in the way of the board you can cut pretty thin panels. Anything larger than 6″ wide I could do the same way and then saw out the middle relatively easily with a panel saw. The end results will need to be cleaned up a bit. Safety obviously of utmost importance here. I have a feeling it takes a toll on the table saw blade too but I use it so little.
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