Rust prevention on Bailey Pattern Planes
Welcome! / Forums / General Woodworking Discussions / Tools and Tool Maintenance/Restoration / Rust prevention on Bailey Pattern Planes
- This topic has 12 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 7 years, 12 months ago by STEVE MASSIE.
-
AuthorPosts
-
14 March 2016 at 2:48 pm #135626
Hey all!
Today I acquired a No4 Smoother as part of a collection of clamps, for AU$20, sight unseen. It’s actually in almost new condition, produced sometime between 1963 and 1971 in Hobart, Australia, probably on the earlier side. So that’s pretty cool.
Since it’s already in pretty much new condition, I want to mess with it as little as possible, but it will definitely need protection from the elements. Lately the weather in Perth is extremely tropical, and my work spaces are either outside undercover, or in a basement/cellar workshop I have. Neither one is damp proof, but I get dirty looks from SWMBO if I leave my tools inside. So I need a way to protect my tools from moisture in some fairly rough conditions. What have people tried? I thought about using Silver Glide that people put on cast iron machine surfaces, but I wasn’t sure if that would cause problems. Oil seems ok, but my concern is with it rubbing off without my noticing, and the tool rusting. My other planes already have a light coat of rust on the sole and the sides, and they aren’t really abused that much.
Help!
Moon….,
I assume you have some type of box/chest to house your tools.
This may help:
http://www.dampsolutions.com.au/store/rechargeable-mini-dehumidifier
These are typically used in gun safes, are not too expensive and are reuseable.
I use plain 3 in 1 oil, Johnsons/ Minwax paste wax to provide protection.
There are fancier products available, but I’ve found these work well.
Dispelling the moisture in storrage and using some wipe on protectant should do the trick.
Still it’s going to be an on going maintenance issue.
Best,
CraigTurle Wax has been good for my tools. My shop is just an old converted barn. So it keeps the rain off, but does little for climate control, but I have kept my restored tools mostly rust free with a regiment of wd40 during use (need to setup a P.S oilcan) and waxing for storage.
A form of rust/wax/oil on surface, large and very multiple varients.
After that, tools stored in boxs, containers of any type available, quickest way of knocking up box’s is via ply wood. Lastly, in any given box or chest, container, a bottle of Vic’s vapour rub, with holes drilled in there lids. The vicks attracks water vapours. Good luck, cheers Peter@roofusson, cool tip about the vicks. I am use that in the non-wood storage bins.
roof…/ehisey,
Vics is mostly petroleum jelly with about 5% camphor and a little Turpentine oil.
A 50 gram jar (2.5 grams camphor) is about $5.00 US
You can get a 1 oz (28.3 grams)block (4-1/4 oz squares individually wrapped) of pure Camphor for $3.56 + shipping on Amazon. Might be able to order them thru your pharmacy–used to be on the shelf, but not now.
The 4 blocks should be enough for a moderate sized tightly closed box, otherwise you’d need 10 jars of Vics ($50.00) for the equivalent.
I really don’t think you’ll get enough Camphor vapor concentration to do any good from the Vics.
BTW there are commercial VPI (Vapor Phase Inhibitors) that work very well and don’t smell like a sick ward. 🙂
There are others beside Bullfrog.
Hope this helps.
Best,
CraigTa for the info Craig, I was not writing through experience. I relayed a article I read on net some where.
By the by, another possibility may be charcoal containers. works with odours, theoretically, it may do the some job. I only came across them once in a Japanese multi products shop. Just a thought, Cheers Peter23 March 2016 at 8:32 am #135870It is very humid where I live in Queensland, so I made up a blend of wax just melting bees wax and mineral oil, I made it so its not hard, just soft enough to wipe on easily.
I’m using Tupperware/Click’n’Seal plastic air-tight boxes, the type designed for sandwiches etc.
They’re transparent, stackable, indestructible, readily-available, cheap and air/water-tight.
With a reproduction Stanley/Record/Woden label placed inside, they’re quite practical.23 March 2016 at 12:39 pm #135873[quote quote=135870]It is very humid where I live in Queensland, so I made up a blend of wax just melting bees wax and mineral oil, I made it so its not hard, just soft enough to wipe on easily.
[/quote]I actually bought some beeswax from a healthfoods store here in Perth not that long ago. Plan was to make some DIY furniture polish, and maybe a rust inhibitor too. Haven’t got around to it yet though. I have some Digger’s Paraffin Oil, reckon that’d work? What sort of ratio did you use?
[quote quote=135871]I’m using Tupperware/Click’n’Seal plastic air-tight boxes, the type designed for sandwiches etc.
They’re transparent, stackable, indestructible, readily-available, cheap and air/water-tight.
With a reproduction Stanley/Record/Woden label placed inside, they’re quite practical.
[/quote]I actually use the Sistema Click’n’Seal ones you see at the super markets for some of my other hobby/repair stuff, but they can get quite pricey. Also I haven’t yet seen one I could fit my No7 in.
- This reply was modified 8 years ago by Mooncabbage.
- This reply was modified 8 years ago by Mooncabbage. Reason: Trying to fix quotes
30 March 2016 at 12:41 pm #136105Sorry I cant remember the ratio of beeswax to mineral oil.
I just made it so it’s not runny, Constancy like yogurt3 April 2016 at 12:30 am #136132Wipe with an oil and use a good wax like Johnson’s paste wax. Wipe clean after every use and oil again, wax every so often. I live in Central Florida surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean and lakes so I know about humidity. “No Rust”!
Steve
-
AuthorPosts
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.