Saw refurb
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Hi
I’m refurbishing and old hand saw. I’m fitting a new handle to the plate. But the existing holes don’t line up with the holes in the handle. Attempted to drill new holes with a cordless drill. But it wouldn’t go through the steel. Anyone have any suggestions?
Tom, spring steel is pretty tough stuff. Just need a better drill bit. Also, when drilling through steel with a hand tool (even a powered one) , it is better to back off the speed a bit…it will bite better.
@cpetersen1970 how could you answer the question posed by the OP? Am I the only one that doesn’t see the first post of every single post?
no @gallarotti, I have the same problem
I have the same problem @gallarotti
The question was how do I drill through a hand saw plate to put a new handle on it. My cordless drill made a small hole but wouldn’t go all the way through
Start with a nice dimple from a center punch for the drill bit to get started on. I like to use step drill bits for steel in a hand drill. Slow and steady.
Derek Long
Denver, Coloradocarbide or titanium…something specifically for steel. This page has a lot of good info but I wouldn’t try ordering from them, too pricey. Look for an equivalent at your local hardware/box store. http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-drill-bits/=yxdxc2
As for the first post, I clicked on tom’s user name and it brought it up in a list of all his posts…but in the normal thread pg, I can’t see it either.
Also consider starting with a small bit, like 1/8 inch and work your way up in increments. I have to drill through pretty thick steel at work a lot. We use wax to lube the bits too. That helps a lot.
I’ve found an easy way to drill through saw plate – use two drill bits. The first is a ‘sacrificial’ bit, used to just spin and heat up the hole area (heating it up softens the steel), followed by a ‘good’ drill bit that will then easily cut through the steel. The first drill bit will be rendered dull by this process and won’t cut through the steel anyway, but is perfect for taking the hardness out of the steel for the following bit, which will retain its sharpness since its only drilling through unhardened steel created by the first bit. Hope this helps.
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