Sawhorse Project
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- This topic has 17 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 5 years, 9 months ago by deanbecker.
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I’m following along with Paul’s sawhorse tutorial. I’ve cut the timber to size, and I’m at the point in the video on 3m 55s. You can see the video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ultj5I1d7zw&t=9s
When Paul places the leg on the bottom left corner and crossbeam, you can see that the leg overlaps the crossbeam a little. Mine doesn’t and is about an inch short. I’ve treble checked my measurements and they are accurate.
Any ideas what’s happened? I’m following Paul’s measurements precisely. The top of the crossbeam is on the top line, all things like that I’ve adhered to.
I can only think perhaps Paul’s sawhorse leg is longer than 26″ – but I doubt that’s the case.
- This topic was modified 5 years, 10 months ago by Mark68.
- This topic was modified 5 years, 10 months ago by Mark68.
- This topic was modified 5 years, 10 months ago by Mark68.
- This topic was modified 5 years, 10 months ago by Mark68.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.27 June 2018 at 5:20 pm #548899You are looking for an angle here only and i dont think it is critical that it go end to end.
I made a couple of these and all i felt was necessary was to get the end of the leg to the front of the top beam.
I doubt your angle will change measureableyif you are off a bit.
If you are down to the front and his measurement both where you set the leg doesnt matter the angle will be the same the full length as long as the front edge touches the front line and the top is on the 5 inch line.I agree, I just find it weird why there’s a difference in length.
As an aside, and probably a silly question, does anyone know what sort of pencils Paul uses? The pencil I’m currently using isn’t the best. Paul tends to have neat crisp lines and I’d like to have the same.
- This reply was modified 5 years, 10 months ago by Mark68.
[quote quote=548903]Do a search for “ticonderoga pencil”.
I gave them a go and they’re all I use now.
They’re the best pencils in the world (it says so right on the die of the box).[/quote]
Sorry, can you confirm these are the ones Paul uses? They certainly look like them.27 June 2018 at 7:32 pm #548905I had no idea what I was using so I went out and looked. Turned out to be Ticonderoga HB (or #2 in the US). Those work great. If you want mirco-thin lines, use a mechanical pencil with hard lead, but those don’t fair very well if the surface is the least bit rough.
27 June 2018 at 9:18 pm #548909Mark.
He says at 3 mn the fnished sawhorse height is 26 not the leg
When you cut the bottoms square to the floor you loose some length. So 29 wouls be a good length for trimming to 2628 June 2018 at 4:08 am #548919I wouldn’t dwell to much on the precision length of them. If they’re a tad short, screw another sacrificial piece on top and you’ve added a few inches, and another sacrificial part. Or screw a second thickness to the bottom of the foot piece. So what if the gusset isn’t lined up on the bottom of the foot? It’ll add the height you need and you won’t need full length pieces to do it with. These shop tools and aids like sawhorses, trestles, even the workbench can be changed and manipulated to accommodate both your height and the wood you have on hand. Don’t sweat it. 🙂
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