Sawhorse Project
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I’m following along with Paul’s sawhorse tutorial. I’ve cut the timber to size, and I’m at the point in the video on 3m 55s. You can see the video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ultj5I1d7zw&t=9s
When Paul places the leg on the bottom left corner and crossbeam, you can see that the leg overlaps the crossbeam a little. Mine doesn’t and is about an inch short. I’ve treble checked my measurements and they are accurate.
Any ideas what’s happened? I’m following Paul’s measurements precisely. The top of the crossbeam is on the top line, all things like that I’ve adhered to.
I can only think perhaps Paul’s sawhorse leg is longer than 26″ – but I doubt that’s the case.
"Sawdust? I think you'll find that's man-glitter."
I used 6″ for the 90 degrees as Paul did. I used 3 x 2 x 26″ for legs and 4 x 2 x 30″ for the crossbeam. I measured 26″ up the board as well and placed the top of the crossbeam on the 26″ line.
"Sawdust? I think you'll find that's man-glitter."
You are looking for an angle here only and i dont think it is critical that it go end to end.
I made a couple of these and all i felt was necessary was to get the end of the leg to the front of the top beam.
I doubt your angle will change measureableyif you are off a bit.
If you are down to the front and his measurement both where you set the leg doesnt matter the angle will be the same the full length as long as the front edge touches the front line and the top is on the 5 inch line.I agree, I just find it weird why there’s a difference in length.
As an aside, and probably a silly question, does anyone know what sort of pencils Paul uses? The pencil I’m currently using isn’t the best. Paul tends to have neat crisp lines and I’d like to have the same.
"Sawdust? I think you'll find that's man-glitter."
Do a search for “ticonderoga pencil”.
I gave them a go and they’re all I use now.
They’re the best pencils in the world (it says so right on the die of the box).Keep Calm and have a Cup of Tea
Do a search for “ticonderoga pencil”.
I gave them a go and they’re all I use now.
They’re the best pencils in the world (it says so right on the die of the box).
Sorry, can you confirm these are the ones Paul uses? They certainly look like them.
"Sawdust? I think you'll find that's man-glitter."
I had no idea what I was using so I went out and looked. Turned out to be Ticonderoga HB (or #2 in the US). Those work great. If you want mirco-thin lines, use a mechanical pencil with hard lead, but those don’t fair very well if the surface is the least bit rough.
Harry
The cut list shows the legs to be 29″.
True. But in the video I’m sure Paul says they are 26″.
Either way you are right; that’s where the problem is
Thanks Harry and thanks for confirming those are the pencils Nikon
"Sawdust? I think you'll find that's man-glitter."
Mark.
He says at 3 mn the fnished sawhorse height is 26 not the leg
When you cut the bottoms square to the floor you loose some length. So 29 wouls be a good length for trimming to 26That makes sense
Oh well, back to the timber yard 😀
26″ with an inch or two taken off will be too small even for me
"Sawdust? I think you'll find that's man-glitter."
I wouldn’t dwell to much on the precision length of them. If they’re a tad short, screw another sacrificial piece on top and you’ve added a few inches, and another sacrificial part. Or screw a second thickness to the bottom of the foot piece. So what if the gusset isn’t lined up on the bottom of the foot? It’ll add the height you need and you won’t need full length pieces to do it with. These shop tools and aids like sawhorses, trestles, even the workbench can be changed and manipulated to accommodate both your height and the wood you have on hand. Don’t sweat it. 🙂
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