Saws decisions
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Hi,
here are saws I have picked recently here and there literally for cents. They are very similar in overall design, and came probably from an one ‘schland home depot supply. I am going to try to make some use of them. Actually, I have sharpened the short one panel (?) saw, and played around for a while with it, and it is working great 🙂I am curious if it is a good idea to have shorter ones of them sharpened for cross cut, and others for rip cut (longer ones). Or vice-versa? What do You think about it?
Cheers, Antoni.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.If you are starting out, the two thing you need are a tenon / back saw and a rip saw. For the tenon, you just want to find one that is 12 to 14 points and file it rip. You can do all of your joinery with it if you use a fine set for dry wood (unless it is a little dinky dovetail saw with a dinky blade that isn’t deep enough for tenons that can’t be split.) The second thing you need is a rip saw for reducing widths. You want a full size saw (not a small panel saw, although you could get by with one) and you want it coarse and filed rip. These suggestions are for dry, seasoned wood.
I am curious if it is a good idea to have shorter ones of them sharpened for cross cut, and others for rip cut (longer ones). Or vice-versa? What do You think about it?
For general shop use, length and how the teeth are filed are generally unrelated. There are 50″ crosscut saws and 50″ rip saws commonly used in hand-tool shops, just as there are 10″ crosscut saws and 10″ rip-filed saws.
You’ll want the mix of lengths and teeth filings that suits your woodworking. If you’re bucking your own logs from your local forest, then you’ll probably need a 4′ crosscut saw that has less than 1 tooth per inch. Many hand-woodworkers got into the revival of the classic Roubo framesaw, and are buying 36″ – 48″ rip-filed blades, maybe 2-3 tpi.
If you’re cutting fine little dovetails, you might want Veritas’ 22tpi Gents Saw filed rip, which has a blade less than 8 inches long. For other fine cross-grain work, that same saw is available filed crosscut.
If you’re just starting, follow Ed’s advice above. Otherwise, get the saws you need to do the work you want done, whatever they may be.
Hi,
Pro tips from all of You, thanks. : ) Now I think one longer, moderate pitched cross cut saw should be more than enough for my needs.But tell me one more thing – how longer backsaws in old style, hand mitre boxes were filed?
I like to play with sharpening saws, just for fun. Here are some more saws I have on hand. One with red plastic handle is sharpened for cross, another one for rip, but I don’t like them much because of flimsy handles. The one with brown handle is quite nice, it has thick, very rigid spine and fine pitch. It deserves wooden handle.
Gents saws – the one in the middle is exceptionally good, it has about 20 tpi (what you can see on the picture is actually its teeth set), and produce the thinnest kerf of all my saws. And I have recut by myself the smaller one to about 25 tpi.Merry X-mass to all!
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