SHARPENING BOARD

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Viewing 6 posts - 16 through 21 (of 21 total)
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  • #19406
    Carlos J. Collazo
    Participant

    Hi to everyone, really great to be here, joined about a month and a half ago and got Paul’s book and DVDs soon after. Very glad to be among all you new genre woodworkers following the projects, Paul’s writings, posts, and the great atmosphere and camaraderie here. I’m still in the very early stages the Working Wood course, basically still gathering tools, mostly from Ebay, but lately new because Ebay I’m finding is not really that great a deal here in the States esp. if you’re still learning to pick out the good used tools in some cases. Used tool sellers seem in it to turn a quick buck.

    Anyway, my question has to do with the sharpening board I need to put together so I can practice and get on with the projects – does the piece of wood the stones are housed in need to be flat/true? I say no, it doesn’t, but reasonably flat yes. As flat as possible will make it easier to develop a “feel” for the 30 degree angle and correct stroke as Paul has explained it. I base this by reasoning that the surface the chisels and plane irons will be flattened and shrpnened on is the diamond stone, which is indeed flat, not the board the stones are set in.

    It’s a really elementary question but would like to hear others’ thoughts.

    Carlos

    New Jersey, U.S.A.

    #19407
    BrianJ
    Participant

    I used plywood and since I used silicone to set the plates into the wood, they self levelled but I did try to keep all 3 fairly level.

    Ontario, Canada

    #19410
    Carlos J. Collazo
    Participant

    Thanks for your reply Brian…I plan to use some scrap pine and some clear silicone sealant on the bottom and sides too and see if it self-levels…Will be trying to keep the stones set as flat as I can but I figure if I make the slots fairly flat at 1/8″ depth, then it should be enough.

    New Jersey, U.S.A.

    #19418
    STEVE MASSIE
    Participant

    Nice Job, I am contemplating on buying Ezee – Lap Diamond stones myself since seeing Paul use them. I have oil stones and and Sigma Power Water Stones which I like really well. But free handing the way Paul does ( and I like BTW ) I some times dig into my stones which I have to re – dress. These are great stones and not necessarily cheap either. I am curious how long the diamond stones last.

    Steve

    Steve Massie, I live in the great State of Florida, US

    #19422
    RL
    Participant

    My sharpening station is this cheap cart from Ikea. Yes I could have built it quite easily and saved $30 but I didn’t see the point.

    After 3 years, the top was like a banana due to all the water sloshing over it constantly, so I put together a new top- made by myself this time!- in an hour or so.

    http://www.ikea.com/ca/en/catalog/products/30240348/

    #19427
    STEVE MASSIE
    Participant

    I thought I had commented on your sharpening board but must have gotten interrupted ( I am watching our 2 year old Granddaughter ) so here goes again.

    That looks very nice and am contemplating on buying those Ezee- Lap Diamond stones. I am currently using Sigma Power Water stones which I like very much, however saying that I find myself digging into the stones using Paul’s method of sharpening which I also like. So I have to refurbish after words with my Atoma 400 which takes valuable time away from wood working.

    How long do the Diamond stones last ? I have heard some people complain about DMt’s so am curious before I shell out the money.

    Thanks for sharing and good luck with your wood working.

    Steve

    Steve Massie, I live in the great State of Florida, US

Viewing 6 posts - 16 through 21 (of 21 total)
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