Sharpening Stone Recommendations
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13 April 2013 at 3:10 am #10879
I’m looking into getting a set of stones and was originally going to get a set of japanese water stones (600/1200/6000) for my knives (mainly my Bushcraft knife). But I’d like to use them for my planes and chisels too. So now I’m learning of these DMT diamond stones here on the forums and am wondering which ones I should get. It looks like Paul uses 250/600/1200 diamonds so I’m leaning towards doing the same.
Has anyone use both the japanese water stones and diamonds stones and have been able to compare the two?
Thanks for any advice!
Joey, I use waterstones for sharpening my straight razors and DMT diamond plates for my wood working tools and pretty much everything else that needs to by sharp and pointy. I know there seems to be some sort of religion around sharpening for some reason but they all work. The thing that I like about using the DMT plates for woodworking tools is the fact that you don’t have to deal with or worry about flatening them, just sharpen and go back to the bench. Waterstones take much more effort and are easily gouged because they are very soft so an errant angle or skewed stroke with a plane iron or chisel can take a nasty gouge out of the stone. I cant tell the difference between edges produced on a waterstone or a DMT. The DMT takes me no longer than a minute or two to hone up a plane blade, waterstones take much longer because of the setup and cleanup.
The DMT I use is the 220, 600 and 1200. You dont need the 8000 because the strop takes care of polishing.
13 April 2013 at 3:33 am #10881Wow, thanks! Very useful information! I do really like the speed at which it seems you get things sharpened and get back to work with the diamond stones, so I think I will start with those. I was considering these, do they look ok? http://www.amazon.com/DMT-W6EFC-6-Inch-Diamond-Whetstone/dp/B003NCVFC4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1365820360&sr=8-2&keywords=dmt+sharpening+stones
I’ve switched to the DMT stones from oil stones, and then the ‘scary sharp’ sandpaper on a marble tile.
I personaly find Pauls method WAAAAY easier to get an edge quickly, by hand, and the back of my left hand is now hair-free since showing off as proof. My 2 cents is to spend the time to polish the back, I’ve gone to quickly before and then gone back to clean it up properly. I love seeing the mirror finish develop after stropping. 220/600/1200
I find it worth the investment – and have mounted them similar to how Paul has as well.
13 April 2013 at 3:58 am #10887Thanks Brian! That set of DMT stones I linked to on Amazon looks really nice. It’s a bit pricey, but it comes with them already in a wooden box with rubber feet, so it seems very similar to how Paul has them set up. So far I have that and the Working Wood 1/2 Book and DVD set in my cart on Amazon. We educate our children at home and I’ve convinced the wife to treat Paul’s training materials as a homeschool expense (I’d love to teach the children as I learn). I’m all giddy. 🙂
Joey, those would work but the faces are those honey combed ones. The DMT plates here are the ones I use. And yes sharpening stones are expensive but they last a long time. I’ve had a 600 grit going on 10 years now. http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=67660&cat=1,43072
13 April 2013 at 4:05 am #10889Thanks for pointing that out Dave. I did wonder what was up with the honey combed shapes. I hadn’t seen those before. I’d prefer to have the plates, so thanks for the link, I’m going to check those out before I buy.
The 3 inch by 8 inch are the size I use. You don’t really need the 4 x 10 size. The problem with the honey combed ones is small iron can sometimes catch the corners.
There are other manufactures too, I think Paul uses ones from a company in the UK, but I’ve never seen them in Canada, DMT seem to be a N. America brand.
13 April 2013 at 4:15 am #10892Joey
I bought these stones from Amazon: Coarse, Medium & SuperFine.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002RL843K/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Then made a holder out of a piece of scrap plywood using Paul’s design shown in his blog.
http://paulsellers.com/2013/03/making-the-paul-sellers-sharpening-plate-holder/
This has worked out really well for me.
13 April 2013 at 4:18 am #10893Awesome, thanks guys! I was looking for that blog post on how he made the plate holder, thanks Steve! I think I am going to opt for the 3×8 DMT plates and make that same plate holder using Paul’s article.
Thanks again for the tips!
13 April 2013 at 4:25 am #10895Oh, those EZE Laps are quite a bit cheaper and still seem to get high praise from Paul: http://paulsellers.com/2012/05/questions-answered-diamond-sharpening-plates/
Thanks for the recommendation, I’m thinking I’ll save a few bucks and go with the EZE Laps.
13 April 2013 at 5:29 am #10896Serhiy posted this back in February:
I ordered mine based on his recommendation right after that post.
Also, Paul recently mentioned getting the Green Polishing Compound from Harbor Freight, you can get a decent sized stick for about $5. I also made a strop based on Paul’s design with that same scrap piece of plywood I used for the plate holder.
I had an opportunity to work with Paul and use his plate holder and strop at the Atlanta show a few weeks back. It is amazing what he can do with a sharp chisel and how quick he gets it sharpened.
Lee Valley is where I got mine – 3 x 8 size.
those honey comb style ones i’ve read work great for flattenting out other stones (you tube info on flattening water stones) but do not lend themselves well to the narrower chisels which may catch if used for sharpening alone.
I think they would definately qualify for home school education!
21 April 2013 at 12:54 am #11187I use the DMT 3×8 plates that, in course, fine, and extra fine. I also bought an extra course for initial tool rehab. I use a leather strop for final honing. I mounted the plates in a similar method to what Paul did. I couldn’t be happier with the ease and quickness of sharpening.
Water stones give you a nice edge as well, but there is a ton more work to get there. Soaking the stones prior to using them, keeping them wet and everything else dry during sharpening, then flattening them when you’re done are all a royal pain.
Diamond stones are virtually maintnence free. Wipe them dry when you’re done and get back to work.
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