sharpening with abrasive paper
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Tagged: sharpening abrasive
- This topic has 24 replies, 12 voices, and was last updated 7 years, 6 months ago by Joris Kempen.
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12 August 2016 at 11:04 pm #139348
Again thanks for the tips.
Recieved my diamond plates and managed to get a semi sharp chisel i think !
And the metal vise: forst going to built stuff with no visual aspect: sharpening board , shooting board, bench etc so i have someting to work on.
Ordered the vise, only need Some of those fancy clams to be retrofitted!16 August 2016 at 10:37 pm #139384I have a couple workmates but I just used saw horses and clamps as well.
Steve
31 August 2016 at 3:57 pm #139824how do i manage to get a burr on the diamond plates when sharpening a chisel?
i put some water on the 3 stones. hold my chisel at about 30 degrees and do about 30-40 strokes on each stone. afterwards nothing of a burr and seems my chisel is becoming even less sharp?
i watched these 2 videos about 4 times each:
https://www.google.nl/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwi9xZvk9OvOAhUD5xoKHcWuDkkQtwIIHjAA&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DKi8tt-VjwqI&usg=AFQjCNEaSV5XY2utgBzPkAKMvVZNsSvCNQ&sig2=eiQKPKNKuNHorEoNE0i9EQand i also have the Mastering 1&2 videos and watched video 7 on the sharpening process.
But i’m not getting anything sharp 🙁
31 August 2016 at 10:03 pm #139837@trekker25 – Joris, sharpening takes a lot of practice. I’ve been doing it by hand for a few years and still I get frustrated. I think I’ve made some improvements lately, however. I found out that what I thought was 30° was really more like 35°. I’m now using a wooden block with one end cut at a 30° angle to help me start the chisel at the proper angle.
To get a burr, the very edge of the chisel has to be touching the diamond plate. If you sharpen like Paul Sellers teaches, then you have a curved bevel and you may be just scraping the curved part of the bevel on the plate. It is tempting to lift the chisel handle up so that the very tip of the chisel is touching the plate. When this happens, you can feel the resistance from pushing the chisel on the plate. But the problem is that you now have too high a bevel angle.
Before and during sharpening, look carefully at the bevel. You should be able to see the scratch pattern left by the diamond stones. I wrote a blog post about some issues I was having at this link. In that blog I mention (and link to) Steve Branam’s excellent blog post about sharpening. Take a look at both.
Most importantly, don’t get frustrated. Practice. When you think you’re getting good at sharpening, you’re probably still not real good. It takes time. Let us know how you make out.
After spending a very frustrating evening trying to saw and plane using a workmate I’d advise against using one.
They are just too light, and when using it I was hopping it around my shop…
I’m going to build the Paul Sellers workbench before I start any big projects.
Regards
Darren.
1 September 2016 at 6:55 am #139849thanks for the tip. Yesterday i was already thinking i need to get a honing guide, as probably my angle is not constant (read on DMT diamond site, the biggest problem is not the angle you choose, but to keep a constant angle).
Paul’s teaching is excellent, but his experience does let it seem easier than it is.
I remember that Paul had a video on making a honing guide, or should i buy one?
1 September 2016 at 10:19 pm #139856@tenjin – Sorry Darren. This LINK should be better. If for some reason it doesn’t work, go to my blog page (address is in my signature line below) and look for the blog entitled “Sharpening Woes” in the archives for August, 2016
@trekker25 – Joris, it is good to learn to sharpen freehand, but a guide can be an excellent tool to get started. Chris Schwarz says he uses on every day and you can get the one he uses – a very inexpensive honing guide from Lie-Nielsen. Don’t get their expensive one – look for the one in their webpage under “Hand Tools” and then “Tom’s Toolbox”. My internet linking skills are poor, but here is the link fully written out “https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/toms-toolbox/blade-sharpening-side-clamping-honing-guide-?node=4225”. You should know that some people modify this guide to improve it when they first get it. Deneb Puchalski has a video on the LN site (on the web page I gave you) that shows how to do it and there are others as well. I just bought one of these last week and have so far used it once (without modifying it). Seems OK to me.I used to use a Lee Valley honing guide that clamps the blade from above, but that’s a poor design as the blade can swivel as you are using it.
6 September 2016 at 1:30 pm #139949Thanks Matt for the pointing out the honing guide.
But you told you are doing it couple of years, but you get sharp enough tools to really build other stuff with it?
As Paul keeps hammering on the need of razor sharp tools?The Lee Nielsen guide is in stock but shipping is about $30, going to find if i can get it from an european webshop!
- This reply was modified 7 years, 6 months ago by Joris Kempen.
11 September 2016 at 2:53 pm #140054I got myself a 10 euro honing guide and started practising on an Aldi chisel. Here are some pics of how the chisel looked after i worked on it. Is it any good?
It seems i still have awkard piece of the bevel which i need to sharpen out?
I also see a small burr coming that goes away after honing. But a it’s not like a mirror edge is it?When i slide my finger across the chisel it feels sharp but doesn’t cut me immediately. Also when i just press my finger on the chisel bevel i’m not being cut. (i’m not cutting just applying pressure).
So am i sharp enough? I tried it on some pine wood, and it really cuts much better as the chisel that haven’t been sharpened.
- This reply was modified 7 years, 6 months ago by Joris Kempen.
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