Sharpening

Hi Michael,

Minute ferrous metal particles tend to blacken as they oxidise, but the best way to determin whether or not a strop needs re-charging is the level of polish reduces.

Here’s a link to one supplier of the honing paste I use, but there are many others

http://www.arb-tek.co.uk/ourshop/prod_1604248-Starkie-Blue-Metal-Polishing-Compound-Free-UK-Postage.html

Hi George,

It’s normally preferable to try and avoid making massive leaps between particle sizes due to the need to eliminate scratches from the previous grit. The difference between coarse and fine isn’t quite as pronounced as that between extra coarse and fine diamond plates and stones. Much depends on how aggressive the plate/stone is, as I often vary which plate or stone combination is used because a great deal depends on the steel being abraded. I think it’s necessary for one to be willing to vary your sharpening routine to match the quality of steel being whetted can make a big difference in end results and work necessary to achieve a working edge. After a while you might find yourself floating between the use of a wider variety of sharpening media.

You’re definitely spot on in terms of the manner in which diamond plates wear/settle in and the only thing I can add is that the same also tends to be true regarding artificial and natural sharpening stones. Perhaps we should only use the term “grit” as a rough guide to the manner in which a sharpening media abrades steel, or it’s finesse, rather than preserve the expectation it will automatically abrade all steel types in a given way.

Hi Joseph,

Yes, it is very much a case of trying to keep work as streamlined as possible while trying to avoid over complicating processes. I think we all eventually find our own method of reaching the same/similar end goals as it truly basically boils down to personal preferences.

Have you tried going from extra fine diamond plate to an approximate grit of 4k prior to stropping? I honestly think hitting stones beyond 4k is wasted effort as the resulting finesse is lost with the first swipe of the plane or chisel, although IMHO stropped edges tend to hold better than their whetted equivalents.

A much delayed reply

Hi Jesper,
Much depends on how much wear an edge has sustained, or how often you touch-up an edge while you work, as the whetting process can tend to become more involved (Involving more grits) and take longer if an edge is allowed to become too dull. I typically (Lightly) re-whet edges as soon as they don’t feel quite as keen as I prefer them to be and this tends to keep honing to the higher grits, until I feel it’s time to slightly adjust a bevel, but that’s my take on it and not necessarily everyone else’s. The convex bevel is normally best maintained using the same grits and in the manner Paul uses, as this helps prevent unnecessary changes in bevel angles.
Try not to worry concerning speed of progress, as speed naturally comes with practise. Simply maintain accuracy and focus until both become a form of habit and you’ll be surprised how soon your pace naturally gathers momentum in all aspects of your work. Time is money when working as a professional in all craft operations and one thing you’re seldom allowed during working hours is time for tool sharpening, so you tend to adopt the fastest means possible of aquiring good quality sharp edges.
The use of primary and secondary bevels is a slower sharpening method than if utilising the convex edge method. An edge doesn’t wear any faster in comparison to convex bevels, but prep time does take longer and (As you rightly said) the primary bevel will need re-grinding occasionally and when the secondary bevel becomes over-sized. Although primary and secondary bevels are in common use within the trade, I’d never come across the phrase “micro-bevel” at any time during my career, or prior to reading about them on the internet.