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Working on a mirror frame for my wife’s bathroom sink. Using quartersawn white oak. I do not need a coffee table just now. So, the mrs. gave me another job.
I used Paul’s method of cutting the mortise and tenons, and, for the first time EVER, my joints have come out perfectly square and flat. No torque to the frame. Can hardly believe it.
Drawbored the joints, mostly because I like the arts & crafts look, but this does pull the joint together even tighter. Air tight if I may say so.
Next…..cut the stiles to length, sand, stain, and finish.
D. Paul19 April 2013 at 12:07 am #11111
Nice tight joints 😉
Hope you put rebate on back?
Dagenham, Essex, England19 April 2013 at 3:33 am #11115
http://hillbillydaiku.com19 April 2013 at 10:27 am #11123
When the joints are tight is it still necessary to have them drawbored or would it be enough to just peg them? The latter is easier to do.
Michael, if the joints are tight I don’t think its necessary to drawboar or peg them really. A drawboard joint would stay together without glue, and it will resist racking a lot better. A pegged joint would add a little more strength I would think. It depends on what you are making and what it will be used for.
Sorry for getting off topic guys, apologies 😉
With a picture frame (or mirror frame in this case) drawboring is admittedly overkill, as there is not much stress occuring. Hopefully, no one will be sitting on my frames!
Drawboring is actually functional on m&t joints that will be stressed, say on workbenches, chairs, portable tool chests.
I made my mortising guide with UHMW plastic (1/4″ thick). The slickness was nice when tapping the chisel. Pictured below are my weapons used.
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