17 January 2015 at 12:12 pm #123601
I’ve started a new project: a small cabinet for the kitchen.
I’ve never made a cabinet before, so this project gives me the opportunity to learn and test new techniques and – I hope – to acquire some skill in furniture making.
[ Maybe it would be more correct to say that this project is an error-prone experiment I’d like to share with you… 🙂 ]
Image #1: a very “minimalistic” wireframe of the cabinet.
Images #2, #3: front and rear frames.
Image #4: chopping mortises; I used two guides to tightly hold the piece in the vise jaws.
Have a nice day!17 January 2015 at 12:20 pm #123606Salko SaficParticipant
I like your LN 4 1/2
The Lost Scrolls of HANDWORK
(Hand tool only woodworking magazine)17 January 2015 at 12:37 pm #123607
Hi Salko, thank you!
Actually the smoothing plane is a DICK #4 smoothing plane: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/category/DICK-Hobel-3581_3593.htm
It works very well and the price is affordable.
LN tools are still a dream for me…17 January 2015 at 1:28 pm #123608Derek LongParticipant
I’ve never heard of Dick planes (Dictum). I looked them up, seems they might be a good option for our European friends here on Masterclasses. They’re based on the Bedrock, like LN planes, but a lot cheaper.
How’s the fit and finish of those planes?
Denver, Colorado17 January 2015 at 2:48 pm #123610
I personally find the DICK #4 smoothing plane very comfortable and solid.
No problems with blade adjustment as well.
It works very well and it produces good results – obviously according to my experience -. I used it with spruce, pine and oak.
I think I’ll buy the #5 too.17 January 2015 at 2:56 pm #123611chemical_cakeParticipant
The drawing doesn’t give much away does it! At least it won’t spoil the surprise when you post the finished project. Your joinery looks good so far.
Is that all you’re working from? I’ve just finished reading all of the Krenov stuff and he didn’t like to work from drawings, so you’re in good company, but I’m completely the opposite. If I don’t work everything out on paper beforehand I screw up.
As one of WWMC’s “European friends”, I would also like to know what you think of the Dick planes. They look to be a more reasonable price, and I could do with a reliably flat #5. I see they have wisely left the name off the lever cap.
Southampton, UK17 January 2015 at 2:58 pm #123612chemical_cakeParticipant
Ignore that last bit, you posted while I was typing.
Southampton, UK17 January 2015 at 11:06 pm #123623Salko SaficParticipant
I have noticed more and more planes replicate LN ones some good and some as my friend and dealer said are good for door stops. LN tried once to put a stop to it but was quickly reminded that they too are replicators of Stanley. In looks these Dick planes are identical to the LN versions and if they are truly flat and everything is as they claim in their advertising then forget dreaming about owning an LN plane since you have one right now. As for the price difference it depends in which country you reside in. Once the conversion is calculated it may or may not work out cheaper than the LN planes.
I think if you have the know how it’s better to restore a decent old relic than spending a fortune like I have on premium planes but I have also seen very nice antique planes unrestored go for a lot more than the premium stuff.
German tools are very good I’ll never forget the futuristic looking moulding planes with interchangeable soles they once made. It was a brilliant idea but the price tag from memory was well over $3000, I wonder if they knew why people never bought them. I also love their so called tablesaw, completely hand powered handsaw in built. You just slide it over the timber a couple of times and you have this pristine very straight cut, again very expensive.
The Lost Scrolls of HANDWORK
(Hand tool only woodworking magazine)19 January 2015 at 10:33 pm #123660
@Matthew: I also have some sketches for the main parts! 😀 They help me to “visualize” and solve some problems (i.e. mating tenons).
That wireframe has the only purpose to show how I’m building the frame!
Generally speaking, I have to admit I’m not a die-hard fan of drawing…
I’m… “in between”. 🙂
But I think your approach is for sure more correct than mine. If you draw all parts and how they fit together, you have, in practice, a clear and precise handbook!
@Salko: the plane is ok and it’s flat. * IMO * it’s a good plane.
Unfortunately I cannot make a comparison with an LN, but I think DICK planes are a good starting point.19 January 2015 at 10:41 pm #123661
Side rails are now squared and I’ve cut the grooves.
It’s time for tenons, now!26 February 2015 at 8:38 am #125069fudokaParticipant
How are you intending to join the various panels together to make the finished cabinet, screws?17 April 2015 at 3:41 pm #126540
I had enough time these days to continue my small (super-overdue) project. So… just a small update.
Panels are MDF (6mm), because I’d like to paint them with some kind of artistic effect (maybe I’ll use acrylic plaster – see attachments for an example).
@fudoka: I’m so sorry for my late reply: grooves are used to house the panels.17 April 2015 at 6:24 pm #126546Matt McGraneParticipant
Looking good, Emelio. That’s going to be one neat looking cabinet.
Matt, Northern California - Started a blog in 2016: http://tinyshopww.blogspot.com/17 April 2015 at 6:35 pm #126547Joel FinkelParticipant
Thanks for sharing this. Looking good. I love the idea of the painted panels.
North side of Chicago. -- "Such a long, long time to be gone; such a short time to be there."3 May 2015 at 9:13 pm #126956
Thank you Matt. Thank you Joel.
Painted panels are now finished. It’s a very simple effect, but I think it’s ok.
I used a very simple technique to make that relief texture: just pressed a crushed aluminium foil on the fresh primer and let the primer dry.
I then used acrylic green and gold to paint the surface.
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