Spinning up Drawbore Pegs
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The traditional method of making these pegs is to pound a slightly oversized whittled peg thru a metal plate with a forming hole.
This is great therapy for anger management and practice for “Wack-a-Mole”, but it’s noisy, has lots of vibration and risky if you miss hit the peg. Beside, most of mine end up slightly bent and look like the dog chewed on them.
I’m sure I must have read about this somewhere in the past, so I won’t take any credit.
I sawed a number of blanks to square at a little over 3/8″ and planed off the edges to a hexagon, whittled a point on each and chucked them into my 3/8″ drill-driver, clamped the hole plate vertically in the vise and “drilled” them thru the hole in the plate.
The result was a perfectly straight, round and burnished 3/8″ peg without the usual noise, vibration and distortion.
I used the same “drilling” technique to install them into the breadboard holes. They tend to “squeal” a little going in.
Hope this helps.
CraigDo you think it work in a hand powered brace? I might have to try that. I will have to wait until next paycheck, I just bought an extra coarse 8 by 3 eze-lap plate for about $100 on amazon. That’s my tool budget for the month. Where did you buy your metal plate, or did you make it? … Robin HC
Robin,
Merry Christmas, hope all is well with you and family.
I also wondered about using the brace, but haven’t tried it yet….I’ll let you know.
I’m sure the commercial plates are wonderful, but I just couldn’t spring for a hunk of metal with a bunch of holes in it, no matter how well machined.
Mine is a 6″ square of steel plate a little under 1/8″ thick that I drilled a 3/8″ hole in….and that’s it.
1/8″ steel bar stock about 1 1/2″ to 2″ wide would work just fine with some progressive holes drilled in. These are available in the hardware section of the big box stores.
With the drilling technique there isn’t the forces that are there if you’re pounding away on the stick with a 2# sledge.
If you wanted a sharper edge on the hole and some exit relief. the surface could be “sharpened” just like flattening the back of a chisel and countersunk on the exit side.
Best,
CraigRobin,
OK, I tried using the brace and it works great, provided you plane the hexagon close to the finished diameter. Like a 1/32″ over size or so. If it’s too fat it’s too hard to push through the hole.
I took a couple of snaps.
Best,
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